Ruska: experience Finland's magnificent autumn foliage
The 'fleeting' season lasts just three weeks

"Nowhere does autumn come in such a burst of sensory glory as in Finland," said Paula Hardy for Lonely Planet.
From mid-September, the Nordic country's forests are transformed into a "multi-layered tapestry" of gold, copper and auburn. With nearly three-quarters of Finland blanketed in trees, it's spectacular to witness the leaves change colour. Finnish people even have a name for this "fleeting" season: ruska. For around three weeks until early October, "ruska pilgrims" flock to Finland to explore the "paprika-dusted mountains".
Many locals and visitors go for a "ruskaretki" (which roughly translates as a hike to admire the autumnal foliage), said Visit Finland. Lapland's Urho Kekkonen National Park is the "ultimate destination" to experience the region's "vast open spaces". Spanning 980 square miles, there are several trails to explore from easy day trips to multi-day hikes. A word of warning: it can be chilly at this time of year so be sure to pack plenty of layers. It's also worth taking a basket to pick bilberries and lingonberries along the way.
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Around a three-hour drive away lies HaliPuu – a 250-acre wellbeing retreat in a forest near the town of Levi in Finnish Lapland. "Cocooning in a hammock" tied between the "centuries-old pine trees" is among the "traditional autumn activities" on offer here, said Richard Franks on the i news site. Evenings are spent toasting lingonberry marshmallows around the campfire and sipping chai lattes.
Nearby in Levi, the Northern Lights Village is one of the top spots for watching the natural light phenomenon. The "cosy wooden cabins" have glass roofs and wraparound windows, so guests can see the "lights dance across the night sky" from the comfort of their beds.
As ruska starts to "fade" in Lapland, the autumn colours "travel south like a colourful wave", said Hardy in Lonely Planet. Koli National Park is "daubed in orange, red and yellow" by the third week of September and you can hike to the top of Ukko-koli to see the "iconic" autumn landscape of Lake Pielisjärvi, painted by Finnish artist Eero Järnefelt in 1889.
It's also worth taking a boat to the Saimaa archipelago, added Visit Finland. Here, visitors can enjoy a yoga session and picnic on one of the many islands – the perfect place to soak up the views of the autumnal foliage.
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Irenie Forshaw is a features writer at The Week, covering arts, culture and travel. She began her career in journalism at Leeds University, where she wrote for the student newspaper, The Gryphon, before working at The Guardian and The New Statesman Group. Irenie then became a senior writer at Elite Traveler, where she oversaw The Experts column.
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