Scuba diving, sport fishing and six-toed cats: exploring the Florida Keys
Time stands still on this archipelago
For a true tropical getaway, head to the Florida Keys. These islands draw scuba divers, recreational fishers and beachgoers looking to take it easy. You will find a little adventure here, too — but nothing that can't be done without a Mai Tai in hand! Here's how to find bliss in the laid-back Keys.
But first, what are the Florida Keys?
The Florida Keys are an island chain stretching across 125 miles at the southern tip of the state. The Overseas Highway and its 42 bridges connect the islands, bringing travelers to Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key and the Lower Keys and Key West. The Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, home to more than 6,000 wildlife species like whales, dolphins and manatees — plus the world's third-largest barrier reef — protects the water surrounding the islands.
Key Largo: dive right in
What to do: Key Largo is where the divers go. Crystal clear water and spots like the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park — the first undersea preserve in the United States — beckon scuba divers and snorkelers seeking underwater beauty. The park covers 70 nautical square miles and you can even dive down to see Christ of the Abyss, a nine-foot-tall bronze statue 10 feet below the water. East of the park is Molasses Reef, a popular diving spot teeming with marine life. If diving is not your thing, enjoy the sparkling water with less of a commitment; book a glass-bottom boat tour or go canoeing and kayaking.
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Where to eat: Locals love Key Largo Conch House, where diners devour key lime macadamia pancakes for breakfast and crab-stuffed mahi-mahi for dinner. If you can't tell by the name, conch is well represented on this menu, from the conch chowder to the lobster and conch ceviche. Travel + Leisure also said the restaurant should be "your introduction to the conch fritter, a Florida Keys specialty."
Where to sleep: Hang your hat at the all-inclusive, adults-only Bungalows Key Largo . All meals, poolside and beachside refreshments, yoga classes, paddle board and kayak rentals, and entertainment are part of the deal — you just have to show up at the right place at the right time. The spacious bungalows are lined up along the property's 1,000 feet of gorgeous shoreline.
Islamorada: a sport fisher's paradise
What to do: Islamorada earned its nickname as the Sport-Fishing Capital of the World due to its geography — the village is situated between Florida Bay and the Atlantic Ocean with access to the Gulf Stream. Visitors can charter boats and hire guides to take them out on the water in search of delicious kingfish, mahi-mahi and sailfish.
Where to eat: Grab dinner and see a show at Lorelei Restaurant and Cabana Bar. Order the tuna nachos, key lime peppercorn snapper and "frozen" key lime pie before settling in for a night of live music or magic. If you went fishing earlier in the day, you can even bring your own catch into the restaurant and have the chef prepare it! This is true sea-to-table dining.
Where to sleep: Coastal chic is the aesthetic at the luxurious Cheeca Lodge & Spa. The rooms are decorated in soothing shades of blue and boast views of the Atlantic Ocean and the 9-hole Islamorada Golf Course. Guests are spoiled for activity choice, with the option of tennis clinics, water aerobics, sunrise yoga, snorkeling tours and eco marine science classes.
Marathon: family-friendly fun in the middle of the Keys
What to do: The halfway point of the Keys, Marathon attracts families eager to participate in all-ages activities. This community is home to Sombrero Beach, where turtles nest from March through October. The marine creatures are beloved in Marathon, and the nonprofit Turtle Hospital welcomes visitors; here, injured endangered sea turtles are rehabilitated, with the goal of getting them back out to sea on their own. You can take guided tours of the hospital and rehab area, and even feed the reptilian residents.
Where to eat: There's fresh seafood, and then there's seafood that has been pulled out of the water and brought straight to the restaurant. At Keys Fisheries, the menu abounds with local delights like Key West shrimp, conch chowder and jumbo stone crab claws. Try the lobster Reuben for a particularly decadent option — but whatever you choose for your main course, be sure to save room for key lime pie, which is clearly a Florida Keys' specialty.
Where to sleep: The aptly-named Tranquility Bay Beachfront Resort was designed with relaxation in mind. Set on a private white sand beach, amenities include three swimming pools, a putting green, volleyball courts and in-room spa services. The roomy two- and three-bedroom villas come with big front porches, while the comfortable garden guest rooms are tucked back in the palms. At sunset, head over to TJ's Tiki Bar for killer sunset views and nightly jazz performances.
Big Pine Key and the Lower Keys: nature at its finest
What to do: Stroll down any street in Big Pine Key and the other Lower Keys and you will likely encounter wildlife, whether it be a Lower Keys marsh rabbit hopping along or a tiny Key deer in the pinelands. The latter creatures, an endangered subspecies of the white-tailed deer found only in the Keys, also roam freely at the National Key Deer Refuge. You can spend a day here hiking trails, snapping photos, working on a plein air masterpiece or birdwatching. If you are in the mood for something a little toothier, head to the Blue Hole observation platform to catch a glimpse of the alligators living in the freshwater pond (the largest body of fresh water in the Keys). Just be sure not to dangle your feet!
Where to sleep and eat: Keep the deer theme going at the Deer Run on the Atlantic. A quaint spot with just four rooms, guests receive a daily organic plant-based breakfast and the use of kayaks and bicycles to get around the island. For lunch and dinner, stop by No Name Pub for one of their famous pizzas (try the Caribbean Chicken) and homemade smoked fish dip made with yellowfin tuna.
Key West: where things go south (in a good way)
What to do: Key West is the southernmost point in the continental U.S. — you can even visit the buoy that proves it — and was once home to legendary American writers Ernest Hemingway and Tennessee Williams. For some literary inspiration, head to their museums; feline fans will especially appreciate the six-toed cats who still roam Hemingway's property, the same place he penned several of his most famous novels. Today, the island's most eminent residents can be found at the Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory. Visitors flock to this glass-domed habitat filled with butterflies, birds and two flamingos.
Where to eat: Being only 91 nautical miles from Havana means Key West hosts some top-notch Cuban restaurants. At the colorful El Meson de Pepe in Old Town, highlights include Pepe's Cuban nachos with homemade plantain chips and ropa vieja and the cayo hueso Cuban mix, "Key West's version of the traditional Cuban sandwich." Sit out on the patio to enjoy live salsa music while sipping a mojito and indulging in a slice of the torta del limon, El Meson de Pepe's homemade spin on key lime pie.
Where to sleep: Established in 1891, La Pensione is a sweet nine-room bed and breakfast with a pool and lovely verandahs wrapping around the historic Classical Revival mansion. While it's peaceful, you'll only be a hop, skip and a jump from the action here — just three blocks away is lively Duval Street, known for its restaurants, bars, shops and drag shows.
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Catherine Garcia has worked as a senior writer at The Week since 2014. Her writing and reporting have appeared in Entertainment Weekly, The New York Times, Wirecutter, NBC News and "The Book of Jezebel," among others. She's a graduate of the University of Redlands and the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism.
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