The Torridon: a luxury retreat amid Highland splendour

A handsome Victorian hunting lodge set beneath the imposing sandstone terraces of the Torridon Hills, the hotel is a 90-minute drive from Inverness and considerably farther from anywhere else, which one feels is rather the point.

Situated on the shores of an Atlantic sea loch, the surrounding landscape is, frankly, the kind of thing postcards were invented for – but once you've had your fill of the great outdoors, the hotel's interior promises an equally welcoming retreat.

Why stay here?

The Torridon offers a choice of accommodation, with 18 boutique rooms in the hotel and a further 12 in the refurbished Stables. Each room in the main lodge is unique, carefully curated to blend a traditional, aristocratic style with contemporary design, without ever feeling overbearing or formal. The Stables rooms, meanwhile, offer a more modest aesthetic that is light and unfussy, with a touch of Celtic chic, and perfectly suited for those desiring some cosy simplicity after a long day out on the hills.

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We stayed in the newly refurbished Chestnut Cottage, itself detached from the main building and sequestered in its own enclosed garden, complete with outdoor bathtub. Like the other rooms, the cottage has been tastefully appointed with a blend of period touches and bespoke, modern furnishings. Warm walnut tones are offset by striking colour splashes and plush, tactile fabrics, including a beautifully woven headboard on the super-king bed, reminiscent of botanical Victoriana.

The separate living room boasts a log burner and shelves of Folio classics that lends the cottage the homely feel of a private chalet. If the outdoor tub doesn't appeal (a preposterous notion, especially when you can repose, otter-like, looking up at the evening stars), the glistening bathroom offers a walk-in rainfall shower, Bamford toiletries and a bathtub of its own.

Eating and drinking

There are two restaurants at the resort, both informed by local, seasonal fare, with much sourced from the hotel's own farm and kitchen garden (the gardeners will cheerfully point out which botanicals have gone into the G&T you're sipping).

Bo & Muc Brasserie is the more casual of the two, serving the familiar and hearty dishes of Highland gastropubs, here elevated by the quality of the produce. After a long journey, we were hungry for bold, uncomplicated stuff; while the various steaks and curries of our fellow diners looked appealing, we had an appetite for cheeseburgers and the rich wedge of Black Angus beef that arrived did not disappoint.

For finer dining, the 1887 restaurant is a sanctum of velvety sophistication, centred around the seven courses of head chef Danny Young's tasting menu. Highlights included a medallion of silky, snow-white cod adrift in a neon jus, and ox, rich and glazed mahogany brown, paired with wild garlic and morel. The standout dish, we agreed, was the chicken liver accompanied by broth, brioche and butter, each infused with a different part of the chicken to create a deliciously unctuous suite of flavours.

For those wishing to enjoy something with a little kick before or after dinner, there are two bars at the hotel. The Beinn Bar, adjacent to Bo & Muc, is similarly understated and a fine place to unwind with a beer or glass of wine. For sheer Instagrammable charm, though, the Whisky Bar takes some beating, with an impressive 365 kinds of malt whisky and blends lining the bar from floor to ceiling. All smoky wood panelling and amber glow, we happily sank into its leather armchairs and enjoyed a few cocktails (the Torridon's own Arcturus Scots Pine Gin made for a smashing martini) under the imperious gaze of the resident stag's head.

Things to do

Much of The Torridon's unique appeal can be found in the majesty of its surroundings, and the resort wisely tailors the majority of activities to that end. Pulse-raising pursuits such as mountain biking and gorge scrambling are on offer, while archery and clay shooting are available on the hotel grounds. Those of a more sedate demeanour can simply enjoy the view while indulging in afternoon tea or whisky and gin tastings (though perhaps not at the same time).

Most visitors to the area typically come for two things: the superb hill walking and the North Coast 500. The hotel offers half and full-day guided walks across a variety of terrain, ranging from gentle lochside rambles to more challenging, technical ascents among the area's nine Munros (mountains over 3,000 feet), including the vast, Toblerone peaks of Beinn Eighe and Liathach. On this visit we took a leisurely hike around the nearby Coulin Forest's twin lochs, though there are countless other trails to choose from, with some offering the chance to glimpse wildlife such as white-tailed eagles and red deer.

Alternatively, the NC500 road follows the highland coastline well beyond Torridon, but some of its most breathtaking views are only a short drive from the hotel, including the dizzying alpine switchbacks of Applecross Pass and the Inner Sound's luminous blue waters. Be warned, however, that peak season (June-August) is prone to overcrowding at some of the route's well-known honeypot sites.

The verdict

A grand old pile in even grander surroundings could have easily succumbed to stuffiness, but here the impeccable style and warm, affable staff dispel that notion entirely. For those wishing to experience the beauty of the wild Scottish hinterlands and enjoy a little luxury on the side, The Torridon is a special and deeply rewarding place to visit.

Stephen Kelly was a guest at The Torridon