Clipstone: French-Japanese fusion hits the high notes

There's no denying Clipstone is "hot right now", says Grace Dent in the London Evening Standard.

A sibling of the Michelin-starred Portland, Clipstone "is a kind of modern French, classically influenced, Japanese-flavoured, denim-acceptable, fine dining spot" that will leave visitors either in a state of "bliss or bewilderment".

The interior "bellows cool, hard-nosed efficiency", says Jay Rayner in The Observer, but look beyond the decor and focus on the food: "Most of it is delightful, with a few excursions into bliss."

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As is fashionable, "the food arrives whenever," says Kathryn Flett in the Daily Telegraph. Don't let that put you off, however. A starter of beef carpaccio with redcurrants is followed by a slab of grilled ox tongue with fabulous preserved cucumber, heritage radishes and creme fraiche. After that comes rillettes of rabbit, pork and foie gras on grilled bread - a delicious "high protein double-punch".

"This is the most compelling menu I've seen for a long time" says AA Gill in The Sunday Times, "a constantly exciting, economically brave but gastronomically astute page, with its recurring tropes and themes that show a kitchen working out its own variations."

And the calf's brain meuniere on toast is a "five-star reason" for going in itself.

Clipstone is at 5 Clipstone Street, London W1