Restaurant review: Six Portland Road - 'old-fashioned, intelligent cooking'

Refreshingly for a buzzy new London restaurant, Six Portland Road is "not trying to ride the zeitgeist", but is instead all about "simple, classic, pleasingly yester-year charm", says Grace Dent in the London Evening Standard.

"There is no glitz, no cutting-edge cool", says Time Out, "just a long lean room where the food does all the talking".

The modern British menu, with warm French and Mediterranean undertones, "refreshes and transforms" each service, but expect the likes of squid a la planta or pork and pistachio terrine, says Dent.

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Main-course vegetarian options "must sing for their supper" - and a combination of girolles, broad beans, spatzle and fried duck egg "does, spiritedly and in tune", says Fay Maschler, also in the Evening Standard.

Specials include a plump scallop served on the shell with nduja sausage, monk's beard and crisp, garlicky breadcrumb - or a buttery mass of polenta, topped with wild mushrooms and wild garlic, broad beans and lashing of cheese and breadcrumbs.

And to top it all off, the decadent chocolate mousse with crème freche, golden almond slices and Griottine cherries is "flawless", says Time Out.

Six Portland Road is in Holland Park, London