In spite of the fact that the Barolos made at this amazing property are still foot-trodden and subjected to extended macerations, the flavours in every new wine are as bright and summer-pudding-soaked as any I have ever tasted. Watch out for the 2015 vintage releases of the Barolos from this historic property – Monvigliero, Cannubi, Acclivi (a blend of Burlotto’s crus) and the estate Barolo are all remarkably precise and aromatically splendid.
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While these nebbiolos will take a while to soften and billow, you can crack on with the forward-drinking Aves. GB’s great-great-grandson, winemaker Fabio Alessandria, has a magician’s touch with this wine. Deeper than the regular Barbera cuvée, Aves is an expressive wine. It shows this lip-smacking grape off to the highest standard at the same time as capturing the nostalgic allure of Burlotto.
2017 Barbera d’Alba, Aves, GB Burlotto, Piemonte, Italy – £21.95, reduced to £19.75 each by the case, Lea & Sandeman, 020-7244 0522, leaandsandeman.co.uk
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com).
This article was originally published in MoneyWeek
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