Situated on a hilltop in Provence, Gordes is frequently included on lists of most beautiful villages in France. Think cicadas chirping, the smell of lavender, a glass of pale rosé among perfectly manicured Cypress trees, and panoramic views of the Luberon valley. In short, pure bliss.
Nestled amongst them is the palatial La Bastide de Gordes, a deluxe hotel that combines five star luxury with rustic charm.
You’re transported into another world from the moment you enter the lobby. Set inside a 12th century castle, the hotel - part of the Airelles collection - has been furnished with meticulously sourced antique furniture and art.
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Each detail creates a romantic and aristocratic feel - from the lobby’s crimson and sage green velvet armchairs, to the tiered wall chandeliers, to the medieval style uniforms worn by the exceptionally attentive and friendly staff.
Each of the suites and rooms have their own character and decor. My suite is luxurious, wallpapered with vibrant red paisley, mahogany furniture and the signature oil paintings that pepper all the walls of La Bastide, in keeping with the 18th century decor.
The rooms perfectly blend style with comfort— the bed is plush and soft and the bathroom is equipped with a large clawfoot tub.
There is also a villa attached to the hotel, which offers all the perks and services of La Bastide, while affording guests a private pool and direct street access.
Privacy is also to be found in the structure of the hotel - stacked terraces hide gourmet restaurants, twinkling azure pools, and hanging gardens, meaning that despite the hotel’s sprawling size, there are always nestled-away spots lie out in the sun and enjoy dramatic views of the valley. And thanks to the altitude, the sunsets here are otherworldly.
It’s the attention to detail that makes the experience magical; whether its the bottle of champagne and pouch full of Sisley product samples in my room, or the vintage style ice cream trolley by the pool stocked with lemon and raspberry sorbet.
Staying at La Bastide is like living in a fairytale, which understandably makes it a popular wedding spot. But despite its stately grandeur, the hotel is surprisingly well equipped to entertain families, with a children’s pool, games room and regular activities, including screenings at an outdoor cinema.
While every aspect of La Bastide is pretty heavenly, the food is arguably the main event. Even if you stay elsewhere in town, a meal at one of its five gourmet restaurants is a must. Three are on hotel premises, two a short walk into Gordes, and all offer a completely different cuisine and atmosphere.
Perhaps best known is the on-site restaurant Clover Gordes, led by the Michelin starred chef Jean-François Piège. Styled with farmhouse style interiors and pistachio green walls, every dish we try here is exquisite, from the truffle burrata to the aubergine dip, all served with a healthy dose of the region’s famous olive oil. Soufflé pizza and wild squid carbonara, where the squid replaces the tagliatelle, are other creative highlights.
Vaulted room is classic Provencal style, La Citadelle is the hotel’s main dining room and home to the breakfast buffet, a decadent spread which includes French pastries, tarts, meats and cheese and a mound of butter the size of my head.
In the evening, candlelit tables spread out onto the large veranda, where you can dine against the backdrop of the sunset. From the prawn tempura amuse-bouche to the fluffy soufflé finale, each course is masterfully put together.
The third of the on-site restaurants, L’Orangerie, offers a Mediterranean style menu and a renowned Sunday brunch.
A short walk into the village is the hotel’s Italian offering, La Bastide de Pierres. As well as having the advantage of being the only restaurant in the town open all year round, it excels in the Italian classic pizzas and pastas.
Last but not least is Le Tigrr Gordes, which opened in Gordes in July of this year - other outposts can be find in such rarefied spots as Saint-Tropez and Courcheval. The youngest and liveliest of the restaurants, Le Tigrr serves Asian fusion food including sushi, dim sum and spring rolls, against a backdrop of stylish black and gold furnishings and a DJ playing lounge music to set the mood.
To unwind from all the hard work of eating gourmet meals and drinking exquisite wine, near end of our visit it’s time to visit the Sisley Spa.
The white stone ceilings and arched corridors lined with wrought iron light fixtures create a sense of hushed calm upon entering the spa, well equipped with an indoor pool sauna, hammam and sensory showers.
As well as traditional treatment rooms, guests can also opt to have a sun-soaked treatment on the terrace.
The full body massage is wonderfully relaxing and effective, tailored to my preferences and problem areas.
Venturing into Gordes itself, visitors will find a busy market on Tuesdays, stocked full of Provencal treats. The area is famous for olive oil, lavender and truffles and, you can smell and taste them in everything from honey to cheese: the truffle cheese is heavenly; the electric-blue lavender cheese perhaps more of a novelty.
If you want to venture further, pay a call at the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, a 12th century monastery set among rolling fields of lavender - an ideal popular Instagram spot during the summer months.
We also visit Moulin Saint Augustin, a family-run vineyard and olive oil factory, fully equipped with old-school production machines, as well as modern interactive display touting the health benefits of olive oil.
Of course, no visit to Provence would be complete without stopping by a vineyard. We while away an afternoon at La Domaine de la Citadelle, touring the sun-washed herb gardens and the wine cellar,, drink some wine. The 1594 Blanc de Blanc Chardonnay is divine
We’re lucky to be greeted by Yves Rousset-Rouard, the mayor of the nearby town Menerbes and something of a local celebrity, show shows us his vast collection of corkscrews from around the world, the oldest dating back to the 17th century. Among his most unusual acquisitions is a corkscrew that also doubles as a working gun (should the occasion somehow call for it), and one crafted by a soldier during the First World War.
A stay at La Bastide offers the best of both words: a tranquil and private resort, but with easy access to the picturesque town of Gordes, and beyond into the beauty and quintessentially French elegance that is Provence.
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