Earlier this year, Messika added Lucky Move to its family of diamond-set collections, which includes Move Classic, Lucky Eye and the co-circular Gatsby offerings. Designed by Valérie Messika – the daughter of diamond merchant André Messika – Lucky Move centres on medallion-like necklaces, rings and earrings.
Roses, roses, all the way. Christian Dior cherished roses above all other flowers. It is to this elegant rambler that Victoire de Castellane turned to for inspiration when designing her new Rose Dior Pop collection.
Issued to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Dior Joaillerie, de Castellane’s five-petaled roses bloom in Pop Art vibrant lacquers and white diamonds; coloured gems make for precious pistils. A blue iteration of the bloom (pictured above) matches blue lacquer with diamonds, sapphires and paraiba tourmalines.
At her Mumbai headquarter, Bina Goenka dreams up unique designs that fuse tiny seed pearls with spectacular gems. Two new creations by the talented colourists are earrings: one stacks bulbous black South Sea pearls with yellow gold and white diamond set shapes, the other encircles Mabe pearls – which have a flat back as they are grown against the oyster’s flat shell – with acid green tsavorites.
In March this year, Francesca Amfitheatrof introduced B Blossom, her debut fine jewellery collection of signet rings, cuffs, necklaces, pendants and earrings for Louis Vuitton since being appointed as the maison’s artistic director of watches and jewellery.
With her first designs, Amfitheatrof paid homage to Louis Vuitton’s famous monogram repeat pattern, singling out and enlarging floral motifs. This winter, choose from a duo of new LV rings. Both are forged from yellow gold, one set with a deep green malachite, the other paved with brilliant diamonds.
The Quatre collection of rings has become one of Boucheron’s brand pillars. With its design, the maison references the architecture of its hometown, the French capital of Paris. This winter season, bands of deep red ceramic intersperse yellow, white and pink gold circles, some set with brilliant diamonds.
Tasaki is well known and loved as a master of pearls, the nacreous gem the Japanese jewellery brand sources from its own farms. The brand is also an expert at working with diamonds, with cutting techniques perfected at its Kobe-headquartered design studio.
A contemporary take on pearl-set jewellery, Tasaki’s Balance collection has been designed by Thakoon Panichgul. The Manhattan fashion creative’s initial collection has since given shape to Tasaki’s Balance Note collection, now available in a yellow or white gold petit size set with Akoya pearls and diamonds.
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel had quite the thing for midnight skies: stars and comets counted amongst Mademoiselle’s favourite motifs. As such, shooting stars also featured in Coco’s first and only fine jewellery collection, the 1932 debuted Bijoux de Diamants which partnered bright diamonds with platinum to dazzling impact. Today, Chanel honours its founders predilection for astronomy with its Comète fine jewellery collection. New additions include a duo of artfully mismatched yellow and white gold shooting star earrings set with diamonds.
David Morris’ Miss Daisy collection may namecheck a soft-petaled flower blooming in the spring and summer time – the design inspiration does not mean that the London jeweller’s floral gems should be abandoned come the cold season. New additions to the collection include a rare hair pin set with white diamonds and a brooch in the shape of a safety pin, which would not look out of place on a gentleman’s reverse either.
In the wild, lotus flowers open its buds come dawn before closing once more at dusk. This cyclical spectacle has inspired the Paris based design team of diamantaire De Beers when drafting the Enchanted Lotus collection. This winter, four new Enchanted Lotus additions includes a pair of bangles each set with light or deeply coloured mother of pearl and the De Beers Group’s ethically-sourced natural diamonds.
Densely arranged bunches of diamonds are a Harry Winston speciality. The brand’s trademarked Winston Cluster mixes pear and marquise-cut diamonds freely and at different angles, all set with minimal metal. A new seasonal addition is Berry Cluster by Harry Winston, a limited selection of fruit-inspired creations dotted with rubies, emeralds and sapphires.
While out Christmas shopping, make sure to visit Marylebone’s Chiltern Street. It is here, nestled between André Balazs’ Chiltern Street Firehouse, the London boutique of storied French candle-maker Cire Trudon (the company’s clients have in the past included the Versailles Royal court) and rising menswear destination Trunk Clothiers that Sheherazade Goldsmith and her friend Laura Bailey have opened a temporary outlet for their fine jewellery brand Loquet.
The duo’s independent business is focussed on crafting lockets that can be filled with miniature totems; a new design is a multi-coloured pendant. The rainbow gem is exclusive available at Loquet’s Chiltern Street pop up over the Christmas period.
For her latest Venyx designs, Eugenie Niarchos has worked with sparkling green Muzo emeralds sourced from Colombian mines. The collection comprises the talisman-like Narwal necklace, which places emerald-set charms next to pink sapphires, amethysts, diamonds and opals, emeralds are also the focal point of a snug-fitting yellow gold choker necklace. A pair of yellow gold Hexagon earrings is set with four Muzo emeralds and 60 diamonds; it’s a gem of geometric beauty.
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