Arriving into the vestibule of Park House Hotel & Spa feels a bit like stepping into an Agatha Christie novel. You can just picture an aristocratic debutante sweeping down the imposing wooden staircase on her way to an assignation; an elderly widow adjusting her pearls in a floral bedroom; Hercule Poirot exercising his little grey cells in the antiques-filled drawing room.
You get the idea – the Edwardian-era hotel is a quintessential English country house retreat. Enveloped in the soft grooves of the South Downs National Park, it’s an inviting haven for those seeking a relaxing getaway in a traditional setting, but with a luxe layer of mod cons – sleek spa, hi-spec tech and gourmet dining – that bring it bang up to date.
Park House Hotel has been owned by the O’Brien family since it opened over six decades ago. Its charismatic founder, Ione O’Brien, inherited the house, then in a ramshackle state. Unable to find a buyer, she decided to turn it into a hotel. Today, photographs of Ione and the celebrities and sportsmen who have stayed at Park House over the years crowd the walls of the inviting bar area, a reminder that this remains a family operation – Ione’s grandson now runs the hotel.
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In that way, Park House operates like a home from home – one in which you’re pampered and cosseted, and where families, children and pets are welcome. It’s an intimate establishment of just 21 rooms - 12 in the main hotel and the remainder in three cottages close by. The accommodation is spotless and uber-traditional in florals and light colours. Our room, number two, was a riot of matching fabrics – the pale green-and-white rose motif spread from the wallpaper to the curtains and the pelmet and was complemented by a light carpet and green velvet chaise longue. The effect was feminine and restful while staying the right side of chintzy.
Our bay window afforded us views over the sweeping lawns and hills, as well as a sunrise worth waking up early for. A roomy bathroom in neutral tiles featured a walk-in shower and separate capacious bath. Although there was no fridge, a server popped upstairs with an ice bucket within minutes of my request.
The classic English feel spreads to the common rooms – a salmon-coloured corridor adorned with equestrian and botanical artwork led to the lounge, a welcoming spot where guests were reading papers and chatting over coffee in front of a blazing fire.
Park House’s ten verdant acres contain two tennis courts, a croquet lawn, a bowls lawn, six-hole golf course and pretty pergola. But while we appreciated the view, sports were off the menu for me and my daughter – we’d come for indulgent relaxation at Park House’s ultra-modern PH20 spa.
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A counterpoint to the traditional style of the main house, the spa is a sleek and chic oasis. Situated in a barn-style building with a high beamed ceiling, its mix of marble, slate and wood come together in a sophisticated fusion. A mezzanine level of sun loungers overlooks the spa’s centrepiece, a 15-metre pool created with shimmering mother-of-pearl mosaic tiles, including a tiled Jacuzzi in the corner. An imposing marble tower at the other end houses a shower and completes the striking layout. There’s also an outdoor pool and bar area for summertime swimming, with designated times for family use.
Downstairs channels a Scandi-chic vibe of minimalist white walls, wooden windows and sparse decor. The compact changing rooms contain foot spas and single-sex sauna and steam rooms and a small gym full of the latest equipment. The treatment area of four rooms offers a range of inviting massages and facials – we both opted for the Lava Shells massage, which uses heated porcelain shells to ease out knots and stimulate blood supply. It was so deliciously relaxing, we knew we’d need a nap before dinner.
After a pre-dinner drink in the bar – a cosy area of banquettes and scattered tables – we enjoyed dinner in the windowed conservatory that made the most of the wonderful views. Dinner was a linen-tablecloth affair but never felt starchy or formal as we enjoyed excellent, but understated, service. We feasted on crab and ginger risotto for starters and followed it up with a Parmesan truffle soufflé (her) and pan-seared cod with curried mussel chowder (me). Almost fit to burst, we forsook dessert for a plate of tangy cheeses and artisan biscuits, before retiring to the bar for a quick nightcap before bed. Breakfast featured a buffet of pastries, cereals and fruits or a range of hot food including smoked fish.
We checked out, but could happily have stayed much longer and explored nearby Chichester, Goodwood, Cowdray Park and Petworth. But chances are we wouldn’t have wanted to leave the welcoming environs of Park House. With its beguiling mix of old-worlde charm and a spa as sleek as any you’ll find in a London boutique hotel, Park House is a place to stay put and allow yourself to be pampered.
Park House, Hotel & Spa is a member of the Pride of Britain Hotels collection (never more than 50 hotels, to guarantee quality and exclusivity). Set in 10 acres of grounds in West Sussex, the property comprises a luxury spa, fine-dining restaurant, two grass tennis courts, golf course, croquet lawn and outdoor heated swimming pool. An overnight stay costs from £130 per room per night (two sharing). Contact Pride of Britain Hotels on 0800 089 3929 (www.prideofbritainhotels.com).
Vicki Power is an experienced journalist who has written about television and interviewed celebrities for national British newspapers and magazines for decades. But in general, she’d rather be travelling, and as a sideline, she’s done a significant amount of travel writing, making jaunts mostly around Europe and the US. She favours gentle walks in alpine destinations, wellness breaks in swanky beach hotels, ski trips for mid-lifers and multigenerational holidays, and writes about travel regularly for The Week, The Scotsman, Tempus Magazine and The Travel Magazine. She also has another career as a talk therapist for individuals and couples, based in southeast London.
