The Chedi Muscat review: the benchmark for Omani hospitality
Exclusive luxury hotel sits on its own private beach in the shadow of the Hajar Mountains
In the Middle East the Chedi Muscat has something of a legendary reputation. Visitors flock from all over the region to discover its understated luxury, chic styling, and relaxing atmosphere, and it is easy to see why.
As the first luxury hotel in Oman – it is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year – the Chedi became the benchmark for Omani hospitality and it continues to be a destination hotel where the details matter, drawing on three decades of experience to ensure a high-end stay for its guests. The Chedi is an exclusive, luxury hotel with a lot of heart and is a perfect place to feel at home away from home.
The location
The Chedi sits on its own 370m private beach within Oman’s capital Muscat, an oasis in a busy, bustling city of 1.7m people. It sits in the shadow of the Hajar Mountains, just ten minutes from the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque and around 20 minutes from the old town and souks.
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There are plenty of local touches to make sure the hotel feels connected to its surroundings. Designed by Belgian architect-designer Jean-Michel Gathy, the reception is inspired by a Bedouin tent, complete with flowing drapery and bench sofas to relax upon. You are greeted by doormen in traditional Omani dress, and the shop sells locally-made homewares, toiletries and collectors’ items.
The property is designed around a series of fountains, courtyards and waterways inspired by the Omani falaj system that provided fresh water from underground wells for hundreds of years. Everywhere on the property you can hear water, whether it is waves hitting shells on the beach, or a fountain trickling away.
The Chedi has three swimming pools including the Long Pool, which is billed as the longest in the Middle East and the length of a football pitch.
The rooms
The property has 158 rooms, but it feels spaced out well enough to never be over crowded, creating a peaceful atmosphere. All rooms have minibars with soft drinks, water (both still and sparkling), and beer, while suites have even more choice. They also come with Bose Wave music systems, televisions, Nespresso machines and kettles.
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The styling is minimalist, but moody, with dim lighting, dark teak and sleek furnishings. Higher grade rooms have sunken baths and additional services such as complimentary laundry. These guests also get exclusive access to the club lounge, which serves afternoon tea every day, as well as canapés and cocktails in the evening.
Eating and drinking
The Chedi has six restaurants alongside its lounges, and there is something for everyone to enjoy. The main restaurant serves buffet-style Middle Eastern, Western, Asian and Indian cuisine, and is available for breakfast, lunch and dinner. A fabulous bottomless brunch is served from 1pm until 4.30pm on a Friday alongside live music and bubbles.
The Serai Pool Cabana’s menu features family favourites such as burgers and shawarma, while the Chedi Pool has a tapas menu, shisha, and views over the beach and ocean. The Long Pool serves Japanese and Asian fusion small plates, perfect for an evening of cocktails and music under the stars. The long pool is atmospherically lit by fire pits in case you get chilly.
But the star of the show has to be the hotel’s seafood restaurant, The Beach, situated right on the beachfront with a stunning panorama. Standout dishes include the pan roasted sea bass with pumpkin puree and gnocchi dumplings, wagyu tenderloin with potato gratin, and hazelnut caramel dessert.
Spa and health facilities
Chedi Muscat’s spa is an attraction for guests and locals alike, and is consistently booked. Treatment rooms are large and roomy and come with private baths. My Balinese massage started with a foot scrub and juice, and I was given a selection of oils to choose from depending on my mood. I was treated to a wonderful massage that worked out any aches and pains I had left over from the flight. There are also hammams, saunas and steam rooms, as well as a relaxation room with floor-to-ceiling views over the Gulf of Oman.
Fitness fans may enjoy the spectacular gym, which may be the most stylish I have ever encountered, lavishly decorated with mashrabiya screens, the most high-tech equipment and dark mahogany trimmings. There is also complimentary sunset yoga, a tennis coach, and three golf courses nearby that the concierge would happily arrange a visit to.
Things to do
It is definitely worth getting out of the city to discover some of Oman’s stunning scenery. More than three quarters of the country is either mountain or desert, so there’s plenty to see and do.
The Chedi’s concierge team can book a luxury desert camp with Canvas Club, which runs a bespoke, private site in the Wahiba Sands. This is definitely more glamping than camping, with each Bedouin tent having ample space, a king size bed, dressing table and robes. They are positioned around a central communal area, where a dinner of local specialities is served under the stars alongside shisha and a roaring fire.
Jaymi McCann was a guest of The Chedi Muscat – a GHM hotel. Rooms start from £450 plus taxes per night; ghmhotels.com. Oman Air flies direct to Muscat daily from London Heathrow with prices from £699 in economy and from £2,999 in business class; omanair.com
Jaymi McCann is a freelance journalist who writes extensively on travel for The Week, as well as publications including The Telegraph, National Geographic, Rough Guides, The i Paper and The Mail on Sunday. She has a degree in English literature from the University of Glasgow, a master’s in newspaper journalism from City University London, and 15 years of experience on Fleet Street. She specialises in writing about Scotland, as well as cruising, city guides and foodie travel. Jaymi loves to discover new places, particularly in Switzerland, Germany and southern Europe. Her Glasgow guide for The Week won a gong at the annual Media Getaway Awards.