Mistress of Mayfair review: haute cuisine for the young at heart

Not very many restaurants occupy the same space an R&B nightclub once did, and even fewer can evoke the vibrancy of their predecessors. Barely a month old, youthful – but refined – energy defines Mistress of Mayfair as the DJ spins soul, funk and disco and the hours slip away.

For all the lavish bells and whistles that are sure to catch your attention, however, don't forget to pay ample attention to what's on the table in front of you. Menus chock-full of tantalising options inspired by Paris give way to classic flavours and clever twists to be paired with delicious wines and cocktails recommended by staff who clearly know their stuff.

The interior

Before we get into the food and drink, let's elaborate on just how lavish those aforementioned bells and whistles are. Mistress is as focused on its aesthetics and atmosphere as its food, with both an entertainment and service charge to consider.

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Down a flight of stairs from street level and through an unassuming door, lush velvet – red and deep pink – is everywhere, from the curtains lining the room to the abundant lounge seating. Offset by gold and silver lamps, chandeliers and tassels, the ensemble is a very deliberate display of elegance and extravagance. That said, the chairs at the two- and four-tops are a little low-slung, meaning you'll have to lean in to eat and converse, particularly when the music and chatter reach their peak.

Speaking of the music, it picks up as more and more people filter in, making for a boisterous environment that may not suit everyone. The playlist is immaculate, however, so if you're looking for energy and good vibes, Mistress has those in spades.

The food

Mistress has delicious food in abundance. The menu is designed to share and the dishes were served two or three at a time with impeccable sequencing. Each item in every pair and trio played off each other wonderfully and the attentive staff made sure to fully reset the table between servings.

Unsurprisingly, traditional French dishes dominate, from stone bass Dugléré to steak frites and sole meunière. Mistress also has a robust menu of classic sides featuring pommes three ways – purée, frites and dauphinoise – as well as a selection of salads, including a beautiful Niçoise.

Where things get exciting is with the restaurant's Cold & Raw section. Three types of carpaccio are on offer, alongside two kinds of tartare, oysters served "classique" or "nouveau", a hamachi crudo and king crab.

The tuna tartare was the standout of the bunch. Each garnish – shallot, scallion, radish, a soy dressing – enhanced the buttery raw fish. The fish itself was the star, smooth and fresh and not fishy at all. A side of arborio rice crackers was the perfect accompaniment.

Served alongside it was the hamachi crudo, which was quite mild. Like the tuna, the fish itself was clean and tender, but it lacked enough flavour to make up for the light-handed application of Granny Smith sauce vierge, pieces of mandarin and anchovy aioli. That said, all it needed was a sprinkle of salt to enhance what was a quite good combination of ingredients.

Tomato carpaccio and steak tartare followed the hamachi and tuna. The former was a surprising hit; the tomatoes weren't overly acidic and were balanced nicely with burrata that I never would have guessed was vegan. A drizzle of Dijon dressing was a bit superfluous but welcome all the same, and a good scattering of puffed buckwheat added a much-needed textural variety.

The steak tartare was unremarkable; a touch too salty and gristly for my liking. It was topped with a delicious, jammy soy-cured egg yolk, however, and that went well with the crispy sourdough on the side.

On the hot menu, the seared diver scallops stole the show. Seared to perfection, they had developed a lovely crust that belied a perfectly tender and warmed-through interior. The scallops would have been good enough by themselves, but their two sauces – a chicken jus and a sort of dark soy glaze – turned it into an umami bomb that I couldn't help but devour quickly.

After the scallops came smoked duck breast, and truffle rigatoni, with a side of ratatouille. The tomato, courgette and aubergine in a sauce with warm notes and a good amount of diced onion was exactly what you'd want from ratatouille, but the truffle rigatoni was a tad disappointing, ultimately ordinary. 

Of the three, I was most conflicted over the duck breast. On one hand, the skin was slightly chewy and was attached by the kind of fat that calls to mind congealed drippings. On the other, the meat itself was well cooked, the celeriac purée was smooth and buttery and the plate was balanced beautifully by slices of fresh blood orange. All it really needed was more blood orange to better offset the richness.

And finally came dessert. The opera cake was a case of form over function; the gold leaf and edible flowers weren't enough to disguise quite a dense sponge and ganache base. That said, the heavy coffee and dark chocolate notes were moreish despite the overall heaviness. By contrast, the tarte tatin was undeniably excellent, the familiar nostalgia of a warm apple pastry juxtaposed with rich vanilla ice cream.

The drink

Mistress has an extensive drinks roster, from wine to cocktails and spirits. Its wine menu spans nine pages and features reds, whites and champagnes by the glass or bottle, mostly from France but with perhaps two dozen from the broad categories of Italy and Spain, and World.

The spirits list leans towards tequila, with at least four each of blancos, reposados, anejos, extra anejos and mezcals. There are also the usual suspects in terms of light and dark liquors with plenty of vodka, gin, rum and Scotch, Japanese and American whisky selections.

As for cocktails, 19 are listed, split between signature and classic. The Citrus Mirage, rimmed with coconut flakes, was a rich, balanced drink that went down quite easily. A classic done right, the Hemingway Daiquiri was exactly the bright blend of citrus, rum and cherry that it is famous for.

The verdict

All in all, Mistress is the kind of place that will continue to attract It girls, influencers and Instagram models as long as the wine keeps flowing, delicious food keeps coming and music keeps pumping. 

While it may not be for everyone, if a night of pomp and circumstance is what you're after, you'll certainly find it at Mistress.

Mistress of Mayfair, 48-49 St James's Street, St James's, London SW1A 1JT
Tel: +44 (0) 020 3727 6997