Lanzarote travel guide: a sea-swept volcanic paradise

Situated off the west coast of Africa, Lanzarote is a striking island that is perhaps more like being on Mars than anywhere on Earth. Vistas are expansive with mountainous crags, reddish, dusty dunes, and the occasional radio tower jutting from one of the peaks. 

The island's geology is fascinating. It's also small enough that you can see the sea from virtually everywhere – the deep Atlantic blue contrasts with the burnt orange and black of the volcanic rock, and the ebony sand that makes up several of the beaches. 

Why you should visit  

The summer months are the hottest in Lanzarote, but it's balmy throughout the rest of the year, though there are the occasional rainy days and blustery winds. Playa del Carmen attracts the drinkers, the stag and hen-dos but the rest of the island is your playground. It attracts the sporty types, and is great for cycling, hiking, running, surfing, windsurfing, parasailing and scuba and plenty more. 

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There are also plenty of fabulous beaches to enjoy. The three sweeping arcs of golden sand and clear waters near Playa Blanca, called Playa Papagayo, are the best of the bunch, and can be accessed via a long, dusty road. There are a couple of restaurants perched on the cliffs for a cold beer and grilled fish.

The landscape gives rise to a unique viticulture. The wines here are grown in the rich volcanic soil and harvested by hand, and the vines are some of the few in the world that escaped the phylloxera blight. El Toro Asador, a fabulous grill restaurant in the hills outside Playa del Carmen, is a great spot for sampling them. Alongside this, there's an incredible selection of beef from Spain and Portugal – ex-dairy cattle, rich and gamey, cut and grilled to order.

Agriculture is limited here given the hardy ground, strong winds and salty air but you'll find tropical fruits and an array of seafood alongside heartier staples, such as a paella made with pasta instead of rice called fideuà. There are also plenty of chickpea dishes, and arguably the best on the island are served at Bar Stop, a 130-year-old tapas bar in the little town of Yaiza.

What to see 

The other thing that grows incredibly well in Lanzarote, and indeed the Canaries in general, will greet you as soon as you exit the airport: giant cacti are everywhere. They're planted in the black volcanic sand, which makes for a dazzling contrast. The Jardín de Cactus (Cactus Garden') is worth a visit. Chances are you'll never see anywhere else like it, with 450 varieties of cacti from around the world planted in a large, tiered amphitheatre that was once used as a quarry for the black rock. 

For the most surreal of experiences on the island, the 'must-do' trip is the volcano tour of Timanfaya, in the national park, which is still active (though its last eruption was in 1730). A coach will take you around a narrow road amid an utterly alien landscape of rust-red dunes, spiky crags and lava frozen mid-flow.

It's worth a trip to the tiny coastal village of Tenesar nearby to take in a sunset. A few white houses lead down to a broad rocky shore which is pounded by the Atlantic waves – a memorable sight. Smashing into the low, black cliffs great, white spikes of foaming water shot some 30 feet into the air.

Where to stay 

The Barceló Hotel Group has a strong presence on the island and for a family vibe, Barceló Playa Blanca is the spot. On the coast by a marina, a short stroll from the restaurants and shops on the pier, the accommodation is arranged in a horseshoe around a lagoon-style pool with tons of sun loungers. 

The hotel has all-inclusive packages which make life very easy. There's live entertainment geared towards all ages, a bar that screens sports and a couple of on-site restaurants (Mexican and Japanese). Rooms are comfy and well-sized with balconies looking out to sea.

If you're here for fitness rather than the fiesta, Barceló Active Resort on the edge of Teguise may be more your thing. With a gym, classes, races and an Olympic-sized pool, it'll tick all the athletic boxes. And there's a lovely bay just below the hotel to take a cooling plunge in the sea post-workout. 

There are several restaurants in the hotel too, including an Italian that does cracking pizza. All-inclusive is your best choice here at 'Royal Tier' level. The buffet is pretty special with generous salads, breads and a grilling station.

Handily, the airport is only a 10-minute drive away, though the planes don't disturb the peace. A short stroll down the coast will bring you to the enclave of Las Caletas and a seaside bar called Casa Tomas – perfect for some sundowners listening to the crashing waves.

How to get here 

Travel to and from Lanzarote from the UK takes between four and four-and-a-half hours; we travelled with easyJet from Luton and were guests of Barceló Playa Blanca and Barceló Active. 

William Leigh was a guest of Barceló Playa Blanca, from £134 a night on a B&B basis, and Lanzarote Active Resort, from £87 on a B&B basis. 

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