Go wild in Juneau
Alaska's third-largest city is not your typical capital
For every adventurer eager to hike and kayak around Juneau, there is a history buff excited to learn about Indigenous cultures and the city's gold mining days. Juneau's landscape also offers endless variety, a temperate rainforest surrounded by beautiful mountains and glaciers. Here are a few ways to experience the joys of Alaska's unique capital, from whale watching to panning for gold.
Visit Mendenhall Glacier
The Mendenhall Glacier is ever-changing. The 13-mile-long glacier has been receding since the 1700s, but our warming planet is accelerating matters — and in less than 30 years it may no longer be visible from the visitor's center. For now, the jagged glacier remains Juneau's biggest draw due to its beauty and accessibility (it is only 12 miles from downtown and easily reachable by car).
You can find fantastic views of the glacier and lake at the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center. Admission is $5 per person for those 16 and older, and grants access to the Pavilion, Photo Point and Steep Creek Trails. Because the glacier is such a popular spot, expect crowds during the summer high season. One way to get around them is by booking a guided kayaking tour; permits are limited, so it will just be you and a select few paddling along Mendenhall Lake, getting up close and personal with the glacier.
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Fly to the Juneau Icefield
Stretching from Taku Inlet to Skagway, the 1,500-square-mile Juneau Icefield is the source of 38 major glaciers, including Mendenhall. Because of the changing climate and variable snow fall, the icefield is shifting and retreating — but for now, it is still one of the largest in North America.
The safest way to reach the Juneau Icefield is by booking a helicopter tour with a reputable company. Prior to taking off from Juneau, you will gear up for the trek and go over safety protocols with the pilot. The journey begins with flightseeing above the icefield's peaks, crevasses and icefalls, and ends by landing on a glacier (likely Herbert, Mendenhall or Taku). Take your time carefully walking across the surface, sticking close to the pilot as you take in this extraordinary sight.
Spend the morning whale watching
After wintering in Hawaii, hundreds of humpback whales make their way back up to Juneau, where they spend the summer feasting on a bounty of krill and herring. Orcas are also in the area, though not in the same numbers as humpbacks. Whale watching season runs from April to November, with the peak in June through August. On any water excursion, you will likely see a combination of harbor seals, sea lions, bald eagles and Dall's porpoise.
There is a difference between trying to spot whales from abroad a massive cruise ship and being out on the open water searching for them in a smaller vessel. On a little boat, you are closer to the action and more likely to notice water sprays and huge gatherings of birds — tell-tale signs that whales are nearby. The captain can maneuver quickly and change course to follow the whales, something that is not possible on a cruise ship.
Learn something new at Sealaska
Southeast Alaskan Native voices from the past and present can be heard at the Sealaska Heritage Institute. For more than 10,000 years, the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian have lived in the region; this nonprofit focuses on preserving their cultures, languages and art through events, lectures, festivals and artifacts.
Inside the institute, treasures abound, including clan regalia, a massive house-front painted and carved by Tsimshian artist David A. Boxley, and the world's largest glass house screen by Tlingit artist Preston Singletary. The exterior of the building and awnings are just as impressive, with formline designs by Haida artists Robert Davidson and Steve Brown.
Take a hike
Juneau is in the Tongass National Forest, which encompasses nearly 17 million acres of temperate rainforest, glaciers, streams and valleys. This is what makes the city a hiker's dream: trails, from easy to strenuous, wind for miles through stunning scenery.
If you want an easy but pleasant hike, try the Mendenhall Glacier Recreation Area's Steep Creek Trail loop; at half a mile, it's short and sweet with a viewing spot where you can see sockeye and coho salmon in the summer (and possibly black bears in a feeding frenzy). Another relaxing choice is the Nugget Falls Trail. Two miles round trip, this one ends at a beautiful waterfall.
Up for more of a challenge? Pack some trail mix and set off for Mount Roberts. The trail is 7.6 miles out and back, and the climb is worth it for the incredible views of Juneau, Douglas and the Gastineau Channel. This is a route that intrepid bird watchers particularly enjoy. But if you want to see the sights without breaking a sweat, take the Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway; the gondola will get you to the Sky Bridge and Mountain House in just five minutes. Here, you can watch a short film about the Tlingit, look at Native carvings and check out a gift shop full of Native art.
Remember: Before embarking upon any hike, check trail conditions and dress appropriately for the weather. Always stay on marked trails and prepare for wildlife encounters.
Pan for gold
In 1881, Juneau was named after Joe Juneau, one of the prospectors who struck gold there in 1880 and ushered in the gold rush (the Tlingit call the area Dzantik'i Héeni, or "Base of the Flounder's River"). You can book a tour to explore old mines and shafts, learn about the prospectors who flocked to Juneau, and pan for gold in an icy cold stream.
Getting to Juneau is part of the fun
No roads lead to Juneau. Because of its geography, you can only reach this remote city by plane, ferry or ship. A vast majority of visitors arrive on cruise ships, with a record 1.65 million passengers disembarking in 2023. If you arrive via cruise, your feet and tour buses should be enough to get you around town for the day. But if you plan on staying in Juneau longer, it's a good idea to rent a car. The city does have a bus system, but it is geared toward locals, not tourists.
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Catherine Garcia is night editor for TheWeek.com. Her writing and reporting has appeared in Entertainment Weekly and EW.com, The New York Times, The Book of Jezebel, and other publications. A Southern California native, Catherine is a graduate of the University of Redlands and the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism.
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