The Dixon Hotel review: art for art’s sake

The winding red-bricked sidestreets of Bermondsey are, as is often opined with derision, no stranger to the hipster chic movement that has swept the more industrial corners of London.

Even the shortest of saunters through SE1 will visitors on a tour of some of the most overwraught attempts at a facelift that one cultural scene could give to a city, from bunker-based breweries flogging overpriced sour beers with pompous names to canopies comprised entirely of umbrellas that can scarcely elicit more than an indifferent shrug or a throwaway Instagram post.

And that’s why The Dixon Hotel, just shouting distance from the gates of Tower Bridge, is the kind of hideaway that this chaotic neighbourhood needed. Opened in February 2019 as part of the Autograph Collection by Marriot, The Dixon has overtaken and reinvigorated the interior of the rather spectacular former building of Tower Bridge Magistrates’ Court, one of the best examples of London’s Edwardian Baroque architecture which dates back to 1906.

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Perhaps the most impressive thing about this hotel is that it has executed its makeover while dancing to the tune of Southwark Borough Council, which placed strict regulations on any renovations to the court due to its status as a Grade II listed building.

As a disused court building that saw more than its fair share of misery, it feels somewhat crass to say that walking into the lobby of The Dixon, now adorned with resplendent chandeliers and modern artworks, verges on thrilling. But the revamped space is gorgeous, flanked by cosy mahogany wall fittings framing the imposing, opulent staircase in the centre of the room.

From here, it’s clear the hotel managed to recruite designers with a sharp eye for detail and a deep respect of the history of the building and its neighbourhood. According to the team at The Dixon, every single piece of art chosen for the hotel was picked to “reflect the vibrancy, charisma, and legacy of SE1”.

The results are intensely striking and almost surreal; in the corridors, enormous po-faced portraits of familiar locals such as Charlie Chaplin and Ernest Shackleton deck the walls complete with abstract embellishments, while a large chandelier comprised of handcuffs hangs above the main staircase.

Our room - one of 193 in this expansive hotel - was surprisingly spacious, but retained a sense of homeliness through its tasteful bedside lighting and muted tones in the carpet and skirting. All rooms here come complete with mini bars, free water and Wi-Fi, lending a welcoming edge to the modernist grey timber furniture and blackened metal accents.

The oversized bed was also a pleasant surprise, as was the bathroom - an all-white marble affair with little in the way of embellishment, resembling something more typical of a classical Dorchester layout than a cutting edge boutique hotel like The Dixon.

But our room, situated in the newly built extension of the building, is only one style of room available at The Dixon. In the older side of the building, the rooms, which also include 14 suites, feature high ceilings and original Edwardian fittings, giving off a more authentically judicial, if somewhat severe, vibe. But every room is packed full of cutting-edge paintings, sculptures and even furniture crafted by local artists.

Downstairs in the communal areas however, things are a little different. The centre of the hotel is the stunning Courtroom Bar, where vibrant flashes of colour have been eschewed for a far darker affair. The ostentatious frame of the original judge’s bench protrudes out above the bar, while deep bistres of Edwardian oak pannelling are puncuated by framed mugshots of those who passed through the doors of the magistrate’s court as suspected criminals.

Some as young as their early teens, a number of the forlorn-faced detainees were brought here for legitimately nefarious crimes, while others were being held simply for being homeless. Across the hall, original prisoner scratchings carved into the courtroom benches have been cast in metal and hung on the wall - a mixture of desperate pleas and ferocious obscenities. I'm not sure I've ever described a hotel cocktail bar as “haunting” before, but there are few words that better fit this fabulous watering hole, but I’ll be back for one of their bone-shaking espresso martinis in no time.

Down in the basement, the roomy Provisioners restaurant represents another tonal shift for the designers of the hotel, who have kitted out this stylish eatery with lively Bauhaus decor. Corals walls, gold furniture and zig-zagging monochrome tiling clamber over each other to dominate this space which once hosted the courthouse’s 20 holding cells, as floor markings denoting their outlines show.

If you're staying here for dinner, definitely go the whole hog and order three courses. My starter of a rich burrata with balsamic glaze and prosciutto di parma was matched by my partner’s succulent culurgiones. A Sardinian twist on cheese dumplings, these delicate little pockets of dough are full to the brim with sharp pecorino and topped off with a tasteful dash of white truffle oil.

Once the mains roll around, one can most certainly do worse than the sordidly juicy 8oz grilled West Country rib-eye, served deliciously simply with garlic butter. But the undeniable highlight here is the pan-fried Newlyn hake; a melt-in-the-mouth fillet of buttery white fish with a crispy skin, served with a side of asparagus and prawns to cater to your crustacean cravings.

The Dixon, at once a vital historical document and a vibrant hideaway which showcases the best of urban hotel renovation, is almost an art piece in itself, and one in which guests can sense the thought and effort that went into its creation. The atmosphere is both austere yet indulgent.

But staying here is also a surprisingly educational experience, such was the designers’ dedication to incorporating the building’s history into this sensitive renovation. The Dixon offers classic comfort, amped up by razor-sharp art and softened by beautiful, captivating and often heartbreaking snapshots of south London’s history.

Double rooms start from £199 with The Orwell Suite from £500​.

The Dixon, 211 Tooley Street SE1 2JX, thedixon.co.uk, +44(0)20 3959 2900