Phu Quoc travel guide: an island paradise in Vietnam

Phu Quoc is Vietnam’s largest island and sits off the Cambodian coast on the eastern edge of the Gulf of Thailand. It’s a much-loved destination among tourists, foreign and domestic, and caters to all budgets.

Famous for its endless palm-dotted, ivory sanded beaches, more than half of the island is pristine national park. This creates a glorious vision of deep jungle green fringed with pale cream beaches, the whole surrounded by an ocean of jade fading to deep blue.

All that said, as with much of Vietnam, the construction crews are moving in and large resorts are springing up all over the place. The island has changed dramatically over 10 years and will continue to do so – go soon, while there’s plenty of space to get lost, dirt tracks to drive down for hours to hidden beaches, friendly faces everywhere and delicious, local bars, cafes, street food and restaurants.

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The beaches

Much of what happens on the island is focused on Long Beach (known locally as Duong Duong) and the majority of beach clubs, restaurants, shops and bars are located here. It’s buzzy but not overwhelmingly so and there’s plenty of space to hang out.

If your hotel isn’t located right on the water, the beach clubs are a great place to spend your time and some offer free sun loungers for those buying food and drinks throughout the day. Even at the expensive end, these places are super-cheap by Western standards, with local beers starting at around £2. That said, they do tend to pump out the tunes (causing some tension with local hotels) particularly as the sweltering day turns to dusk and the sun dips toward the sea. So, if that’s not your vibe, head further afield. There are miles of beaches away from it all.

Further north up the coast from Long Beach is Ong Lang, home to a few, quieter resorts, the sand dotted with limestone rocks and the occasional bar or restaurant. Of note is Mango Bay, a hotel that has a fabulous restaurant “On The Rock” with a deck perched (you guessed it) on rocks over the ocean. It does a great line in grilled and raw seafood alongside Vietnamese classics and steaks with coconut crackers, herb salads and our fave, sticky rice cooked with a deeply savoury beef jus.

A lot of guides recommend Starfish Beach, but it’s a bit past it these days; the most exciting part of it was the half-hour drive on a broad, red sand track through dense jungle. The sea was muddy, the starfish were either very shy or had gone somewhere else on our visit and the restaurants were nothing to write home about.

The south is home to some of the island’s best beaches – in part because of a steady, cooling breeze which rolls in off the sea, whisking away some of that sticky heat. Broad swathes of beach are largely quiet with few people, gentle waves and a cooler sea temperature.

Eating and drinking

Eating out is an inherent part of the culture here – from plastic stools around food carts on the street to modern takes on classic dishes and high end luxury seafood spots – there are countless options for dining. A few must-tries on the island, available all over, are the Phu Quoc-style herring salad with onions, garlic, chilli and coconut; bún kèn (ken noodles) with herbs, pounded fish, shredded green papaya and cucumber over rice noodles with a coconut and lemongrass broth; and grilled sea urchins with spring onions and peanuts.

I’m usually a stickler for local stuff but across Vietnam a new breed of young chefs, who have learnt the classics, are putting their modern take on things. Saigonese Eatery is at the top of this game; an ultra-hip venue, poured concrete floors, white walls and a vaulted warehouse roof with an in-house bakery and an open kitchen. The menu is eclectic – some classic Viet set menus sit alongside fried chicken baos, crispy squid with satay mayo and a killer wagyu burger with “Pho” flavours, inspired by the world famous Vietnamese soup.

Things to see and do

You can do all the usual water sports here and Phu Quoc is home to some of Vietnam’s best diving with the core season from October to May. There are waterfalls to hike to, fishing trips, temples and pagodas, the world’s longest cable car out to the small island of Hon Thom (it’s 8km if you’re interested and takes around 15 minutes), and a knock-off version of Disneyland called “VinWonders”. Mainly, Phu Quoc is about downtime, about relaxing, reading, snoozing in the shade of palm trees by the lapping sea, eating well and inexpensively.

Where to stay: best hotels

Regent Phu Quoc

The island has everything from backpacker hostels for a few bucks a night to ultra luxe hotels. The jewel in the crown is the Regent – a stunning, brutalist megalith of utopian splendour. At ground level, cavernous hallways are surrounded by koi-filled pools, sweeping streams of linen billow over a vast pool that runs virtually to the sea overlooked by a gorgeous, teak and linen-decked Rice Market restaurant.

Accommodation comprises private pool villas so main swimming spots are quiet – particularly the long, slender roof-top infinity pool serviced by the gorgeous Fu Bar turning out a killer line in refreshing variants on the theme of gin and tonic. Uninterrupted sunset views are accompanied by relaxed tropical disco tunes and well-heeled party-goers. Rates start from £324; ihg.com

La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc

La Veranda was the first of the upscale properties to break ground in Phu Quoc; located in the centre of town, it’s a veritable oasis of calm. Down a short track, set back from the road, the tall French-inspired open-air reception leads on to crude brick paths that snake through gorgeous tropical plants – tall palms, spiky snake plants and broad leafed monsteras, dotted with lights and water features from which frogs croak.

Rooms are located throughout the grounds or in the new wing which has fantastic views of the beach that runs up to the hotel. A beautiful, tranquil pool, tiled in a shade of cerulean, is served by Le Jardin, La Veranda’s beach-side restaurant serving up Vietnamese and Western classics. Rooms are classy – featuring French tiles, dark mahogany, large bathrooms and either garden terraces or balconies. Rates for a deluxe garden room start from £115; laverandaresorts.com

JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa

The JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa sits away from it all on the southern tip of the island. It’s only 20 minutes from the main drag if you’re wanting to head out for dinner but the hotel has it all. The location means it gets beautiful cool winds off the sea – a welcome respite from the heat. It’s a quirky place with a retro feel, designed by American architect Bill Bensley (who else?!) and themed around a university. Lots of educational puns abound although staff are very keen to tell you you won’t need to do any studying while you’re here.

Pools line the palm-fringed beach with dedicated spaces for kids. The grounds are expansive, well modelled, with a rather utopian vibe; lush plants and pastels everywhere, gentle music pumped throughout. The food here is fantastic – in particular breakfast. Rooms have fantastic views over the trees to the ocean, with huge, marble-clad wetrooms, balconies and giant, comfy beds facing the windows. Rates start from £189 room only, based on two people sharing; marriott.com

Getting there and around

Most people opt to fly into Phu Quoc’s airport, now an international one, and it’s a cheap, quick flight from any of Vietnam’s major cities. We journeyed in from Danang and out to Ho Chi Minh to catch a flight back to the UK. Getting about the island is a doddle – GrabTaxis are incredibly inexpensive and cover the island – you won’t wait more than a few minutes for that gloriously air-conditioned ride.

William Leigh was a guest of Regent Phu Quoc, La Veranda, and JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa