Grand Universe Lucca review: a luxurious stay in historic Lucca

Think of the picturesque Italian region of Tuscany, and notions of wine, art and culture will likely spring to mind, from arguably the area’s most famous city, Florence, to Pisa’s iconic leaning tower.

But just a quick train ride from Pisa sits beautiful Lucca, a historic walled city that has delicately preserved architecture which dates back to mediaeval times. And right in the centre, at the edge of Piazza Napoleone and Piazza del Giglio, sits the impressive Grand Universe Lucca, without pretension, but with quiet, and justified confidence.

Why stay here?

This city is full of hidden nooks and crannies, so staying in the Grand Universe Lucca on one of the main piazzas feels refreshingly spacious. That feeling of creating space where there isn’t much is reflected in the design of the hotel – walking through the large front doors you immediately enter into a lobby in which sits a beautiful grand piano. Take a right and you’re welcomed with a refreshing juice before checking in and being guided to your room.

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The service is impeccable, with the reception team more than happy to advise on activities to do, book taxis and help in any way. With a limited number of rooms, it feels both exclusive and intimate, with the affable staff always ready with a smile and a “buongiorno”. This artfully designed hotel may not have a pool, but it does have lots of other facilities including a small gym with dumbbells and a couple of cardio machines, as well as two bars, one up on the terrace which has beautiful views over the mountains, and another bar downstairs which is ideal for a pre- or post-dinner drink.

Rooms and suites

Each of the hotel’s 55 rooms and suites are tastefully designed, with crisp white sheets on large inviting beds that are deliciously comfortable whether you’re staying in a double “Piccolo” room or the townhouse-like two floor “Maestro Suite”. The modernity of the hotel juxtaposes with the history of the building it sits in while still respecting the beauty of Lucca. There’s a sense of homeliness that has a foundation based on real luxury, which is a feeling that runs throughout with each detail feeling high quality and considered, but not aloof. After a day of wandering, eating and drinking, the large en-suite is a welcome sight with its indulgent bath and spacious shower.

Views from the rooms overlook the historic streets or the sometimes bustling piazzas below, and a lovely morning activity after making the most of the comprehensive breakfast selection is to curl up on one of the deep window sills that doubles as a reading seat with a book in hand.

Eating and drinking

Living up to its name as the wine region of Italy, the food and drink in Lucca is not only indulgent and flavourful, but very reasonably priced. Because everywhere is a short walk away, there’s no need to organise taxis to any of the osterias, trattorias and ristorantes for lunch or dinner. La Bottega di Anna e Leo, which is a stone’s throw from the university, is a particular favourite for pasta.

If a quiet night in at the hotel takes your fancy, then head to the Symphony Lounge downstairs. Its bar is fully stocked for any cocktail that comes to mind and the friendly, welcoming bartenders are more than happy to help before seating you for dinner in the small but artfully designed Legacy Restaurant next door. On the menu at Legacy, there are substantial and generously sized dishes including regional specialities like Tuscan ragu, grilled octopus and fresh pasta which can all be paired with local wines recommended by your waiter. Should you really want to push the boat out, head to the Sommità Martin Orsyn Champagne Rooftop where you can enjoy a glass of bubbly and views from the terrace.

What to do

The best place to start is to take the pleasant 2.7-mile walk around the Lucca city walls because this not only gives an overview of the area, but also passes some beautiful houses and landscapes. Stop in any café for an espresso or pause for a little lunch before finishing your gentle stroll among runners and dog walkers alike.

Venture out of the city via bus or taxi, which can be organised by the hotel, and head to a vineyard. Tenuta Adamo is only around 20 minutes from the centre and for €30 visitors can experience five wines plus some charcuterie and a tour of the vineyard. The staff are sociable and generous, even offering lifts back to the centre for a reduced rate.

If late night drinking and socialising is your thing, then simply wander up the main shopping street in Lucca until you hit Via Michele Rosi where you’ll find university students and young people spilling onto the streets with glasses of red wine in hand.

The verdict

Lucca is a must visit whether as part of a trip around Tuscany or as its own destination because of its historic winding streets, buzzing atmosphere and delicious, reasonably priced food and drink.

A luxury destination in a prime location, Gran Universe Lucca doesn’t feel stuffy or pretentious thanks to the sleek, modern décor and friendly staff that remember you by name. Its boutique nature means it’s never overwhelmed with guests so sits as the perfect base to explore the mediaeval area that surrounds it as well as a place to relax and look over the vibrant square beneath. For a homely but luxurious base after a day of exploring and experiencing, Gran Universe Lucca is the place to stay.

Olivia Perl was a guest of Grand Universe Lucca. Room rates start from £220 per night. Piazza Del Giglio, Lucca 55100, Italy; granduniverselucca.com

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