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Escape the crowds with a long weekend in Brno
The Czech Republic’s second city promises stunning architecture and a vibrant food scene – with fewer tourists than Prague
Really savvy travellers know that second cities are the ones we should all be flocking to: the overlooked ones, the quieter ones, the underestimated ones that have so much to offer.
Brno must be the epitome of this. Bursting with character, beauty and culture, it may be the Czech Republic’s second city, but it’s by no means second rate. In fact, having spent a considerable amount of time here, I would argue that it’s the perfect place to explore Czech culture away from the crowds.
Things to do
Špilberk Castle tops a hill overlooking the city
(Image credit: Michal Růžička)
I’m always an advocate of just walking around to get to know a place, and here is no exception. Take in the varied architecture, as well as the Vegetable Market, Brno Dragon, Capuchin Monastery, Freedom Square, and bizarre Astronomical Clock as you explore.
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The Brno Pass is a convenient way to see as much as you can in the city, and great value too. Use it to visit some of the city’s biggest sights, such as the imposing Cathedral of St Peter and Paul and the Old Town Hall, which dates from 1240.
The pass also gives you entry to Špilberk Castle, probably the most identifiable sight in all of Brno. This 750-year-old castle tops a hill of the same name, and can be seen from most of the city. The complex houses several museums, with art and artefacts explaining the region’s history. The park and walls have wonderful views, so take a seat and relax.
From here you will see just how many spires Brno has; there are dozens of churches. The Church of St James, however, should be on your list. Founded in the 13th century, its angelically white interior feels peaceful and serene but climb up into the roof space and you will find a fascinating light show.
Architecture buffs may also be surprised to learn that Brno is home to one of modernist designer Mies van der Rohe’s masterpieces, the Unesco-listedVilla Tugendhat. Built in 1930 for textile company owners Greta and Fritz Tugendhat, it was a sensation when finished, and still impresses today.
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One of the newest attractions are the Water Tanks under Žluty Kopec, a complex of three cisterns built between 1874 and 1917. They are vast, cathedral-like, and truly astonishing examples of industrial engineering. Enjoy the art show and peculiar acoustics.
Subterranean tourism seems to be a big thing here. Head underground to the Labyrinth under the Vegetable Market to learn more about how the city grew. There’s also the Second World War air-raid shelter, 10-Z bunker, and the Ossuary at the church of St James, which is the second largest in Europe after Paris’ Catacombs and houses the remains of 50,000 people.
Get out of the city and head to the Brno Reservoir, a 259-hectare man-made lake that’s just a short hop on the tram away. It’s probably best enjoyed in the summer, when you can swim and take boat trips across to Veveří Castle. Also, check out the nearby Brno Zoo and the Brno Dam, built in the 1930s. On its shore is the Infinit Maximus Resort Spa, home to heated outdoor pools, hot tubs and a sauna complex.
Eating and drinking
Inside Mies van der Rohe’s masterpiece, the Unesco-listed Villa Tugendhat
(Image credit: David Zidlicky)
At the elegant Pavillon Steak House, in Park Koliště near the National Theatre, service is smooth, and the food is hearty and delicious, yet still refined. The steak selection is a fantastic treat for two.
The Czech Republic has a large Vietnamese population, and the food is some of the best this far west of Hanoi. Try Bonjour Vietnam for a big bowl of aromatic pho, or refreshing summer rolls.
Castellana Trattoria is one of those family Italians that’s become a local favourite. We couldn’t spot another tourist, which has to be a good sign. Expect steaming mounds of pasta, as well as charcuterie boards of hand-sliced prosciutto.
For casual eats go to Bistro Bastardo, a Mexican burrito spot that always had a queue outside, as well as Úvozna, a burger joint near the Water Tanks, or Zaza for puffy sourdough pizzas.
You’ll find a daily menu, a lunch deal that’s usually great value, almost everywhere. At Nepalese restaurant Pokhara we got soup plus a thali of three curries, rice and naan for around £7.
Brno is the perfect place to explore Czech culture away from the crowds
(Image credit: Jan Zabrodsky / Getty)
The Grandhotel Brno is a great spot to rest your head. Situated across from both the railway and bus stations, it’s not far to take your bags, and almost everything on this list is walkable. The beds are large and comfy, and the rooms have plenty of space for chilling out after a long day. The breakfast features local delicacies such as poppyseed cake, as well as meats, hot bites and even sparkling wine for those special occasions.
Jaymi McCann is a freelance journalist who writes extensively on travel for The Week, as well as publications including The Telegraph, National Geographic, Rough Guides, The i Paper and The Mail on Sunday. She has a degree in English literature from the University of Glasgow, a master’s in newspaper journalism from City University London, and 15 years of experience on Fleet Street. She specialises in writing about Scotland, as well as cruising, city guides and foodie travel. Jaymi loves to discover new places, particularly in Switzerland, Germany and southern Europe. Her Glasgow guide for The Week won a gong at the annual Media Getaway Awards.
