Life on board a luxury residential ship

Blinking as the spray hit my face, I awoke to a sky glowing pink in the minutes before sunrise. It is a magical thing to sleep under the stars, made even more so when you’re on a ship in the Atlantic Ocean, somewhere off the coast of Portugal. My Bali bed overlooked the wake of the ship, and I watched the sunrise in silence as waves lapped against the hull and dolphins played in the surf.

My view was from the stern of The World, the largest residential yacht on the planet and an exclusive playground for those who can afford to board. But this isn’t the type of cruise you can book for a week. Apartments fetch up to $15 million plus yearly fees, and range from smaller studios to almost palatial three-bedroom abodes.

There are only 165 residences, but their occupants, including Fortune 500 CEOs and celebrities, are thoroughly vetted before being allowed to come along for the ride, checking not only they can afford it, but that they will fit in. So I was getting a unique, behind-the-curtains glimpse into life at sea for the super-rich on my journey between Malaga and Lisbon.

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Pushing the boat out

Unlike on a typical cruise ship, each apartment is completely different. Once you’ve bought it, it is yours to do with what you like, meaning styles can range from chic and minimal, to bright and bold. Mine, a two-bedroom apartment with a large balcony, was designed in nautical grey, white and blue, and came with art clearly collected by the owners on their travels. Bvlgari toiletries and luxurious Frette linen are provided as standard, but owners personalise the interiors into a true home away from home.

And this is what they want. It’s not owned by a faceless company, but run by a committee of the residents themselves, and the size of their apartment is directly proportional to how many ‘shares’ they have. While I’m sure that comes with its own internal politics, they vote on itineraries, what food is provided, repairs, and even which fabrics are chosen for public spaces.

“It’s a great group of people,” said Robin Edwards, 77, who has been a resident since 2015. “We have dinner with different people almost every night. Sometimes I feel so lucky, I have to pinch myself.”

A millionaire’s playground

While it may feel like a village, it’s certainly a well equipped one. There’s a tennis and pickleball court, a golf simulator with onboard pro, a poker room, a certified Yacht Club, a large library, a beauty salon and spa, a place of worship, six restaurants, six bars, and a wine cellar holding more than 15,000 bottles. Public spaces are neutral and restrained, with a grand piano in the main atrium, and spectacular flower arrangements sourced from florists along the way.

The experience is enriched by private talks from local artists and Nobel laureates, and I enjoyed a cooking demonstration by Lisbon-based Michelin-starred chef João Sá as we sailed into the Portuguese capital.

The average resident of The World is, of course, very wealthy – reportedly they’re required to be worth at least $10 million – but as people with means they could just buy their own private yacht. By choosing to travel this way, they show themselves to be interested in learning, in having company as they do it, and in the unique experiences that are on offer.

“You come for the itinerary but you stay for the community,” said Jennifer Montgomery, 51, who has been a resident since 2016. “Some of my closest friends are on board and we travel with them off the ship, we go on ski trips, we go scuba diving. There are people going through major life events and we all support one another, whether it’s illness or divorce. It’s a truly special place.”

Stand-out service

This community feeling extended beyond the guests. While there are around 150 residents, there are also 300 staff on board. Rather than being sourced from other shipping lines, The World approaches those working at some of the best hotels and restaurants. Staff are encouraged to get to know the guests, and as I explored it was apparent that there is a more congenial relationship between them than I expected. The residents knew about their server’s lives and families; I watched as they played with and high-fived the son of executive chef Sebastian Gnida.

But this doesn’t mean it’s unprofessional. As soon as you have told one server of your preference for, say, a medium rare steak, they all know that you like a medium rare steak. I found the service to be intuitive, with staff having an intrinsic understanding of how much a guest might want to chat, of how much advice to give on the menu, or how often to offer drinks at the pool.

However, there are rules. You can’t take photos of other residents without their permission and public spaces are free of loud phone calls. There is a dress code, particularly on black-tie fine-dining nights, but bare midriffs or flip-flops are never permitted. Despite this, residents are subtle, they don’t flaunt their wealth with jewels or labels, but instead treat it like their home.

Tailor-made itineraries

The World circumnavigates the globe each year, with tailor-made itineraries that are chosen by the residents themselves. While they go to the usual cruise destinations – the Mediterranean or the Caribbean, for example – they spend more time in each stop than is typical, often for several days. Each year they also go on two or three expedition trips to destinations that typically do not have a port to welcome large ships, such as the Galápagos or Madagascar.

On my last morning I enjoyed a massage in the 7,000-square-foot spa with therapist Snailer. His expert hands and experience as a physiotherapist meant he knew exactly how to help my laptop-worn back. Plus, the spa’s Vichy showers, heated loungers, cold plunge pool and saunas meant I left refreshed and revitalised.

Disembarking into the dusty streets of Lisbon, I reflected on my time on The World. I had come with preconceptions of flashy clothes and a colder reception. Instead, I was welcomed into a community full of warm, thoughtful and curious people, whose wealth was the least interesting thing about them. Sadly, now I just need to figure out how to get back on board.

Jaymi was a guest on board The World, aboardtheworld.com