Visiting Maui a year after the Lahaina fire

Sitting on Kaanapali Beach, it can feel like you were plucked from everyday life and dropped into a postcard showing off the sunny skies, cerulean waters and golden sands of Maui.

Spend a few moments in Maui, the second largest of the Hawaiian islands, and it becomes clear why travelers are drawn to the Valley Isle. The views — of sunsets at the beach, lush greenery, rainbows, waterfalls and the Pacific — are one reason, with the island's culture, history and aloha spirit the others. "I went to Maui to stay a week and remained five," Mark Twain once wrote. "I never spent so pleasant a month before, or bade any place goodbye so regretfully."

A day that changed everything

The affection visitors have for Maui was made all the more apparent last August, when a devastating wildfire created by strong winds decimated most of the town of Lahaina, a onetime whaling village on the northwest coast filled with historic buildings, restaurants and shops. (There are two Lahainas — the town and the region, the latter also encompassing Kaanapali and Kapalua.) Immediately, people from around the world asked what they could do to help, donating money to survivors and offering to assist with recovery efforts. So resources could be focused on fire victims, the Hawaii Tourism Authority asked visitors to leave the island and "strongly discouraged" future nonessential travel, the message amplified by celebrities like Jason Momoa.

Subscribe to The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign up

People listened. The number of visitors to Maui plummeted and has yet to bounce back, even after Hawaiian officials made a new appeal a month after the fire, telling people it was fine to return as long as they stayed away from the burn zone. Close to 70% of every dollar generated in Maui comes from tourism, the Maui Economic Development Board said, and data shows that in May 2024, 179,233 visitors came to Maui, down 25.4% compared to May 2023.

"We need people to come over and visit because we have so much beauty, so much to offer," said Jules Hansen, owner of Beachin' Rides Maui. "It's not just in Lahaina Town." Maui is a "magical" place, she added, thanks to its "melting pot" of residents, and the "people, culture and beauty are what make Maui awesome."

Looking forward in Lahaina

It does look different around the town of Lahaina. The charred remains of homes and businesses are behind tall fences, to both provide privacy and keep debris contained. There are manned checkpoints to the burn zone, so only residents with ID can pass through. A memorial along the Lahaina Bypass includes more than 100 crosses, a stark reminder of the lives lost in the fire. But glimmers of Lahaina's past and future remain, starting with the Old Lahaina Luau.

One of the only surviving structures in the historical district, the nightly luau offers traditional dishes, from haupia (coconut pudding) to kalua pua'a (roast pork), with hula and musical performances. A mile away, diners arrive for a coveted table at Mala Ocean Tavern, which reopened in February. Right on the water, the best seats are on the patio, and the best item on the menu is the Mala signature: seared ahi in shiitake-mushroom-ginger sauce.

Locals have a simple request: Visit responsibly and respectfully. The wounds are fresh, and everyone has been affected by the fire. Avoid asking questions, like if someone lost their home or any loved ones. If they want to share their story, they will on their own terms. And do steer clear of the burn zone.

Exploring Maui, by boat, bike and car

Outside of the town of Lahaina, it is business as usual on Maui. In Upcountry, you can spend a breezy morning exploring historic Makawao, a paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) town filled with eclectic boutiques and cozy restaurants (be sure to stop at 'Ohana Island Grindz for a delicious acai bowl and loco moco, a Hawaiian staple). Golf and a mai tai lunch at Monkeypod Kitchen could be on the agenda in Wailea, along with a sunrise or sunset excursion to Haleakala. 

A beautiful thing about Maui is how quick everyone is to chat. The aloha spirit is real, with residents eager to tell you about their favorite poke spot or shave ice shop. This extends to tips on tours to take from locally owned companies. Trilogy Excursions is known throughout the island for its smooth sailings to Lana'i and Molokini for snorkeling and beach days, led by the skilled Captain Turtle, Captain Amanda, and Maurice and Emma on the deck crew. Cyclists looking for an exhilarating ride find it with Maui Bombers, which offers treks with a twist. Their newest guided tour is Wild Wild Wednesday, which takes bikers down the switchbacks of Haleakala and through 12 miles of road that could double as a rollercoaster track.

History buffs can find thrills of their own, learning about agriculture on the island. On the Maui Pineapple Tour in Hali'imaile, guests board an air conditioned bus for an informative outing where guides explain how pineapples grow, with the bonus of being able to try the sweet fruit in the middle of a field (you also get a fresh Maui Gold pineapple to take home with you, packaged in a carry-on approved container). The Maui Chocolate Tour takes visitors from the Maui Ku'ia Estate Chocolate Factory in Lahaina to its private cacao estate in the foothills of the West Maui Mountains. Here, after walking through the cacao trees and learning how chocolate is made, you get to try some for yourself in a treehouse overlooking the ocean.

Volunteering opportunities are also available for visitors looking to connect with the community. Maui Cultural Lands holds clean-up days in the Honokowai Valley, with participants able to weed out invasive species and replace them with native plants. The Maui Humane Society's Dog on Demand program allows tourists to take shelter dogs on an adventure for the day. Many of these pups rarely get time outside, and if a bond is formed during the outing, the Humane Society will help with adoption and the logistics of transporting the animal to its new home.

A bewitching beach

There are perks to staying in any part of Maui, but Kaanapali is special. On this splendid beach, the ombre water shifts from a deep royal blue to dark azure to turquoise, and the palms always sway. Down by Black Rock stands the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, the first hotel to open here, in 1963. This is a tranquil place where it is easy to settle in and never want to leave. You can rent snorkeling gear and tool around Black Rock, swimming in water teeming with fish and sea turtles, or book a plush cabana for a chill pool day. Activities include lei making, koi fish feeding and morning yoga, and at night, the Maui Nui Luau takes over the grand lawn, with fire and hula dancers and a storyteller who weaves together Polynesian tales. In rooms with balconies facing the ocean, the views are phenomenal from sunrise to sunset, and during the winter, humpback whales glide by, putting on a show as they breach offshore.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of Maui Pineapple Tour, Maui Chocolate Tour and Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa