Rockliffe Hall's soothing sleep retreat

"Feel your chakras lining up along your spine…", murmurs a voice from somewhere close by. I'm in the sleep retreat at Rockliffe Hall, tucked beneath a blanket with a towel folded over my eyes. A gong sounds, signalling the end of our guided meditation session. Any longer and I would almost certainly have drifted off. Which is exactly the point – I've come to the sprawling country hotel on the County Durham and North Yorkshire border to try out the overnight Relax & Renew break. Wrapped in a fluffy robe, fresh from my 'pro-sleep ritual' at the spa, it's hard to remember the last time I felt quite so calm.

Why stay here?

Set within a 375-acre estate in the sleepy village of Hurworth, Rockliffe Hall ticks many of the boxes needed for a restorative weekend away. The original 19th-century red-brick mansion (which was undergoing a refurb when we visited) was bought by Middlesbrough Football Club in the mid-90s and transformed into a lavish five-star resort complete with a golf course, spa and training complex for the team.

We stayed in the New Hall – the modern extension which is home to just 33 rooms and suites. Ours was a bright, generously sized room decorated in shades of pale grey, with sweeping views across the golf course. It had everything we needed for a comfortable stay from an enormous king-size bed to a marble-tiled bathroom with a monsoon rain shower and separate bath with a TV. The luxury Molton Brown toiletries and sleep-themed lavender and patchouli scented candle were a nice touch, too.

The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign up

Eating and drinking

Terra, Rockliffe Hall's French bistro, has a laid-back feel but with all the trappings of a high-end restaurant, from immaculate white tablecloths to a charming sommelier on hand to help with wine recommendations. The food is superb. We kicked things off with a glass of bubbly from the champagne trolley, half a dozen oysters harvested from Ireland's east coast and delightful French-style devilled eggs topped with salty slivers of Ortiz anchovies.

Overseen by culinary director James Close, head chef Adam Molloy does the classics with panache. The French onion soup topped with a giant garlic crouton was packed with flavour, as was the deceptively simple (but very delicious) Toulouse sausage on a bed of puy lentils with a rich mustard sauce. Be sure to save room for dessert if you can: the crisp, airy mille-feuille was the perfect end to the meal. We were slightly saddened to learn from the waiter that Terra is set to close at the end of May but he assured us Molloy and the team will unveil a brand-new restaurant later in the year when the refurb of the Grade II listed Old Hall is complete.

Breakfast would usually be served in The Orangery but because of the building work we ate ours in the New Hall. Alongside the continental buffet (think mini pastries, fruit and granolas), you can choose from traditional dishes like avocado on toast or a full English. And if you want a casual bite to eat, stroll over to the golf course Club House for soups, salads and sandwiches.

Things to do

Golf fans can spend an afternoon teeing off on the 18-hole course, but there's plenty to do beyond the green. We went on a sunny walk into Hulworth, looping back through the countryside along the River Tees. Back at the resort, we stumbled on the walled garden, where the hotel grows organic produce for its restaurants.

Of course, the real draw is the spa. As part of the Relax & Renew package we had a 90-minute session booked in the Spa Garden – an exclusive area that's open to only 15 people at a time, with a heated outdoor infinity pool, warm tiled loungers and a glass-fronted sauna. Usually this costs an extra £25 for hotel guests and the pool actually felt quite busy (everyone was making the most of the sun) so if you decide to skip it you won't be missing out too much. Back in the main building the facilities are excellent, including a circular hydropool, a 20-metre indoor pool, a foot spa and multiple saunas (you might bump into a member of the football team in one of them).

After an afternoon reading my book by the pool I headed to the cavernous, maroon-coloured spa for a 'tranquillity pro-sleep massage' with Hollie, one of the expert masseuses. She explained this would be gentler than other treatments; more a series of light touches and brushes than the type of high-pressure massage you might have to relieve muscle tension. Unsurprisingly, lying on the warm bed, breathing in the aroma of essential oils while being softly stroked had me dozing off a few times.

The verdict

For a restful break with an outstanding spa and wonderful food, Rockliffe Hall is a safe bet. Despite being partially closed for a refurbishment, the attentive staff went out of their way to make sure everything went smoothly. Our meal at Terra is one I won't forget any time soon; get there by the end of May if you can.

Irenie was a guest of Rockliffe Hall, she stayed on the Rest & Relaxation overnight package, rockliffehall.com