Timeless hotels for old-school elegance
From Jamaica to Rome, we check into incredibly atmospheric landmarks
There are some places in the world with such a strong sense of continuity; of a past preserved that makes the present more special, where time makes no changes; as if the clocks have literally frozen in the hotels' Elysian days.
For a glamorous history and a sepia-tinted trip back to the 1950s heyday of Ocho Rios, the family-run Jamaica Inn remains the best kind of time-warp travel, untouched by any undue modernity (aside from the bathrooms, thankfully). Here, they take matters one step further: there are no TVs, phones, radios or even clocks in any of the rooms. In other words, heaven. So if you want space, style and an old-world kick, it certainly delivers.
The food is reassuringly classic at Teddy's Beach Bar & Grill (excellent shrimp cocktail and perfectly grilled snapper), where an old-school vibe prevails – so you can rediscover the art of the pre-dinner cocktail when cicadas and the clink of Martini glasses remain the most atmospheric soundtrack conceivable. But then everything harks back to a more genteel day, with the whirr of lazy ceiling fans, high tea and croquet on the lawns, hammocks and colonnaded balconies with views of a romantic slick of conch-studded beach.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
It remains a nostalgic comfort zone with such style and panache, not to mention the lure of its divine cornflower-blue cottages – Suite 21, to be specific, where Marilyn Monroe honeymooned with Arthur Miller. For the romantic revivalists out there, wait until you see Ballyfin in Ireland, for what has to be the most flawless realisation of a Regency fantasy imaginable. At the foot of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, it is, quite simply, like stepping into an opulent, candelabra-flickering scene from Stanley Kubrick's Barry Lyndon.
Few hotels pay so much attention to historical details as this sprawling Irish-Georgian estate, which doubles as a grand 20-bedroom hotel, its spectacular silken interiors restored by Colin Orchard. You can feel the tantalising breath of history sweeping through its spaces, be it the statement chandelier owned by Napoleon's sister that sparkles in the drawing room, or the museum-worthy china cupboard with displays of hand-painted porcelain commissioned by the Crown Prince of Denmark. And then there is the vintage pony and trap in which you can roam around the grounds seeking out the walled garden, or go for an unforgettable picnic in the lichen-speckled folly.
"Landmark" is an often-misused adjective, but Hotel Locarno in Rome is the real deal – an Art Nouveau beauty situated off the Piazza del Popolo, where you can't help but feel a sense of being in a lyrical foreign film. The good life comes easily at this historic bolthole: you want to be drinking a Negroni in the prettiest wisteria-draped courtyard bar, as Cy Twombly and Jack Kerouac would have done before you. And all the suites have the atmosphere you demand from a Roman legend where everyone from Fellini to Wes Anderson has hunkered down, the latter using the property as his pied-à-terre when in town.
This is an incredibly atmospheric hotel, infused with a bygone elegance and reams of charm. You see it in the heavy tasselled room key and the clackety parquet floors, not to mention in some of the historic suites, chock-full of antiques, where the walls remain covered in puffed-up brocade and Murano-glass chandeliers dangle from impossibly ornate moulded ceilings.
Over in Paris – on the Left Bank, to be precise – another institution, L'Hotel, exudes that same kind of raffishly glamorous magic. Too intimate to be a hotel, it's more like a 'museum mansion', as if from another place, another time. You can still hole up in the same suite where Oscar Wilde stayed (the hotel was his last home, and the scene of his death in 1900) – as idiosyncratic as it is romantic, it has been ravishingly redecorated in his honour.
But the hotel remains dramatic and dark, with colonnades, silk lampshades and Ottoman-Empire-style drapes; in the centre is a sensational spiral staircase, and in the basement you'll find a candlelit hammam. For sheer extravagance, you can't beat the Mistinguett room with its statement mirrored bed, where you'll want to recline and order the hotel's signature champagne cocktail, The Usual – created by actress and L'Hotel guest Tilda Swinton, it tastes of Parma Violets. There's a room dedicated to leopard print, and a fabulous, faded animal-print carpet in the lift. It's just all so heady: the people, the history, the peeling grandeur of its glorious architecture – it really must never change.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
Delilah Khomo is Travel Editor at Tatler.
-
The nuclear threat: is Vladimir Putin bluffing?
Talking Point Kremlin's newest ballistic missile has some worried for Nato nations
By The Week UK Published
-
Layla: Amrou Al-Kadhi's queer love story splits critics
Talking Point Bilal Hasna gives a 'winning performance' in starring role – but the romance feels 'bland'
By The Week UK Published
-
Captain Tom: a tarnished legacy
Talking Point Misuse of foundation funds threatens to make the Moore family a disgrace
By The Week UK Published
-
The Biltmore Mayfair review: a quintessential slice of luxury London
The Week Recommends This swanky retreat in Grosvenor Square blends old-world glamour with modern comforts
By Caroline Dolby Published
-
Langdale Chase Hotel: a cosy nook in the Lake District
The Week Recommends This Victorian villa has breathtaking views and expansive gardens
By Natasha Langan Published
-
Ramdane Touhami's Hotel Drei Berge
The Blend A passion project in the Swiss mountains sees creative visionary Ramdane Touhami achieving new heights
By Delilah Khomo Published
-
Hoteliers who host
The Blend Sublime design gets personal at these luxury properties with personality
By Delilah Khomo Published
-
Engel Ayurpura: a boutique Ayurveda retreat in the Dolomites
The Week Recommends The tranquil Italian hideaway offers an array of specially tailored wellness programmes
By Ann Lee Published
-
Isles of Scilly: discover the abundant joys of island life
The Week Recommends Ramble, sail and feast your way around Scilly to experience a region like no other
By Julia O'Driscoll, The Week UK Published
-
Raffles London at The OWO review: a quintessentially British stay
The Week Recommends This heritage building has been given a twist as a luxury hotel in the nation's capital
By Leaf Arbuthnot, The Week UK Published
-
Royal Hideaway Corales Beach, Tenerife: sleek hotel offering culinary adventure
The Week Recommends Discover the island's volcanic beauty and black sands from this adults-only hideaway
By William Leigh Published