Don't be fooled by the bare tables, industrial design features and low prices, says Bloomberg. The cooking at The Frog in London's E1 "is more serious that in many fancy restaurants, with a focus on flavour and an appreciation of aesthetics".
"It's modern Michelin-level food, only the stars are in the kitchen not on the wall." – Bloomberg
Not entirely, says Marina O'Loughlin in The Guardian. "I can't shake the feeling that the Frog is a rather silly restaurant, torn between a desire to be both fine dining and rock'n'roll".
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Roast hake "cooked for maybe a crucial minute too long" and tortured into a boat shape "verges on the comical", she says, but crackly, beetroot-stained sugar tubes stuffed with beetroot pannacotta and jellied yuzu, then dusted with a blanket of lurid beetroot powder has "technique, panache and creativity".
There are some obvious problems, agrees Radio Times, most notably the decor and the service, but Handling's cooking is ample compensation. This is a restaurant "brimming with verve and excitement".
The Frog is at Old Truman Brewery, London E1
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