I first tasted this wine in a line-up of bottles with Jim Eustace, managing director of wine emporium Haynes, Hanson & Clark. I never judge a wine by its label, preferring to zone in on the flavour. That way, I can be sure that it is the contents of the bottle that have stood up to my rigorous assessment rather than the artwork! However, as Jim poured this glass for me I spotted a nigh on imperceptible curve in the corner of his mouth which grew and grew.
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Try as he might, he couldn’t stifle a smile, which rapidly turned into a grin. I didn’t have to be a clairvoyant to figure out that he had a bit of a thing for this newly arrived vintage.
Now, this is a man who doesn’t give anything away and so I knew that ’17 Campriano was special and, of course, it is. This is one of the juiciest, most joyous and finest value Chiantis I have tasted in years. Daniel Craig needs to pour this wine next time he fancies a game of poker, too.
2017 Chianti, Colli Senesi, Campriano, Tuscany, Italy – £12.90, reduced to £11.45 each by the case, Haynes Hanson & Clark, 020-7584 7927, hhandc.co.uk.
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com).
This article was originally published in MoneyWeek
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