This wine is made from 65% pinot noir grapes and 35% pinot meunier, making it a fascinating “white from red” tipple – even my fading eyesight can spot that there is a lot of red fruit in this sparkler because it is ever so slightly pink. This terrific, pale hue catches you unawares and then you are hit with the double-whammy of a haunting cherry-skin nose and a silky, hedgerow-kissed palate, which confounds the senses.
What is going on here? I can tell you that, although this wine seems to be intentionally playing tricks with your mind, it is also utterly delicious and drinking perfectly already.
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And just in case you were tempted to think that this must be just a one-off, then try the 2016 Sparkling Rosé Brut (£33.95, reduced to £31.75 each, case price). It has a steely 20% chardonnay in its mix and, while this wine is genuinely rosé in colour, the palate is stern and linear, and the mouth-watering, percussive acidity drags the palate out to a staggeringly long finish.
This wine needs age and it is shaped like a mighty white sparkler, whereas the “white” is forward and flattering. Confused? You will be, but what a wonderful way to lose yourself in two brilliant newly released wines. The “difficult second album syndrome” was never a problem for Rathfinny. These two wines are a step up on their inaugural releases and I cannot wait to see what happens next.
2015 Rathfinny, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Sussex, England – £35.95, reduced to £33.50 each for 12 bottles, Lea & Sandeman, 020-7244 0522, leaandsandeman.co.uk
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)
This article was originally published in MoneyWeek
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