Grain de Café by Cartier: high carat, zero caffeine
With its latest fine jewellery collection, Cartier finds precious beauty in the coffee bean
“To surprise was important to me,” said Marie-Laure Cérède. The jewellery and watchmaking creative director of Cartier is video-calling from Paris; on her finger, a tiered ring gives off a gentle golden glow. And it’s this jewel – alongside a number of necklaces and bracelets – that Cérède dreamt up to surprise many with. Because Grain de Café, the heritage brand’s second fine jewellery collection devoted to a naturalistic theme following the successful Cactus de Cartier, is centred on the coffee bean.
At Cartier, casting everyday items from prestige materials has history – Juste Un Clou designs come to mind, as do the screws that detail the Love bracelet – and so has the coffee bean. It was Cartier’s genre-defining creative director Jeanne Toussaint who first added the coffee bean to the house’s stylistic vocabulary in 1938. Many gems followed, particularly during the 1950s and 1960s; among them, a suite of necklace and matching earrings beloved by Princess Grace of Monaco.
Anchored in Cartier’s biography, Cérède’s Grain de Café however is anything but nostalgic. “We didn’t want it to be literal, we wanted it to be modern, contemporary,” she said. “And we wanted this to be a multisensory collection.” Finished by the brand’s skilled makers, there is technical virtuosity to Grain de Café gems. In rings and bracelets, clusters and rows of oblong shapes – the beans – are mounted on a fully braided chain cast from two types of gold. The effect is both tactile and auditory, as each shape follows movement. The result is a musical, rattling sound, one Cérède today likens to the “rustling of leafs in the autumn”.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
While some pieces are worked with diamonds and sculpted obsidian, Grain de Café is a gold collection first. Yellow, white and rose gold features. “One of the challenges we have – and that I want us to have – is to introduce what I call ‘a new preciousness’,” Cérède explained. “What I mean is that we have been creating with just one material, gold. It’s much more complex than working with different stones, a variation of colours. Here, you have only gold and we play with light, with engraving, with volume and with different finishes to create something very precious.”
On my laptop screen, Cérède now moves on to one of her new bracelets, turning the jewel around and moving it closer to her camera lens. “From every angle, everything in this collection is beautiful,” she said. “I call it the luxury of invisible details. It’s not only what you are able to see, it’s also about what you feel.”
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Airplane food is reportedly getting much worse
Cockroaches and E. coli are among the recent problems encountered in the skies
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
What Mike Huckabee means for US-Israel relations
In the Spotlight Some observers are worried that the conservative evangelical minister could be a destabilizing influence on an already volatile region
By Rafi Schwartz, The Week US Published
-
Crossword: November 19, 2024
The Week's daily crossword
By The Week Staff Published
-
Inside Chopard's hotel on Place Vendôme
The Blend Swiss jewellery maison Chopard unveils its new jewel, an ultra-exclusive Parisian hotel that elevates the art of hospitality
By Felix Bischof Published
-
Why more men are wearing jewellery
In Depth Pop culture is boosting interest in earrings and necklaces, alongside classic tie pins and lapel pins
By Adrienne Wyper, The Week UK Published
-
Otiumberg: sustainable jewellery beyond the hype
Under the radar Launched by two sisters, this London-based brand has gone from strength to strength
By Alexandra Zagalsky Published
-
Inside the rocky marriage of Priscilla Presley and Elvis
Under the Radar Rock and roll legend’s former wife praises Sofia Coppola’s new biopic
By Keumars Afifi-Sabet Published
-
How Burning Man descended into chaos
Under the Radar Torrential rain leaves thousands of revellers stuck at Nevada festival
By Chas Newkey-Burden Published
-
Princess Diana’s death in The Crown: how accurate is the Netflix series?
Under the Radar The controversial show is returning for sixth and final season later this year
By Felicity Capon Published
-
Michael Parkinson: five best interviews by star presenter
Under the Radar ‘King of the chat show’ Parky has died aged 88
By Harriet Marsden Published
-
The Beanie Bubble: the true story behind fallen toy empire film
Under the Radar New release depicts rise and fall of 1990s stuffed plushy phenomenon
By Harriet Marsden Published