Junsei review: putting a Japanese spin on nose-to-tail dining
Chicken gizzard, neck and artery are among the sensational skewers at this new Marylebone yakitori restaurant
Junsei, which opened in June, is one of London’s few Japanese restaurants focused around yakitori – the practice of grilling food, ordinarily chicken, using skewers over a charcoal fire.
Located on Marylebone’s Seymour Place, this intimate and elegant restaurant places an emphasis on zero-waste cooking, using every part of the animal, from hearts and neck to arteries and gizzard. Alongside the meat skewers, veggie skewers, donabe (rice) bowls and seasonal Japanese hot plates are also on offer, as well as a wide variety of sake, wine and cocktails.
Junsei (which means “pure” in Japanese) is the first restaurant from chef Aman Lakhiani, who learned Japanese cooking techniques from Tokyo’s Tsukiji Sushi Academy and the Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant Dos Palillos in Barcelona.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The space
The cosy restaurant, which seats just 37 people, has a minimalist feel, with Japanese artwork, light oak flooring, grey leather chairs and brass finishes. The main toilets are down a steep flight of stairs, meaning they are not wheelchair accessible.
From the dainty chopsticks to the glazed wooden disposer for your finished yakitori sticks, all the crockery and cutlery is authentic and aesthetically pleasing, and supplied by the Japanese Knife Company, a stone’s throw away on Baker Street.
The best seats in the house are undoubtedly at the “chef’s table” – a long counter at the back of the restaurant that seats just five people. There, you can watch the small team of chefs at work, grilling them about their processes as they meticulously grill your dishes.
The food
The menu comprises more than 20 skewers, with the majority featuring different parts of organic, slow-reared Suffolk chicken – from seseri (chicken neck) to kawa (crispy chicken skin). Non-chicken yakitori options include shitake mushroom, quail eggs, tofu and okra.
Each skewer is grilled over Binchōtan charcoal, a white variety made from Japanese oak which is considered the purest charcoal in the world. Burning the skewers at a high heat ensures that the meat cooks from the inside out, guaranteeing succulent, melt-in-the-mouth flavours enclosed in smokey crispiness.
The menu also features traditional Japanese hotplates such as wagyu beef and miso mussels. There are also several donabe rice dishes which are made using dashi – the umami-like stock which forms the basis of miso soup.
For foodies who want to try everything, I recommend opting for the omakase menu (£55 per person), which follows the Japanese tradition of “I’ll leave it up to you”. Rather than picking individual dishes, the chefs present you with a range of menu highlights, with Lakhiani’s only request being to “expect the unexpected”.
For me, the exciting omakase menu featured more than 15 different small plates. My highlights included roasted chicken thigh yakitori with house tari (a 55-year-old flavouring made from soy sauce, chicken bone broth, saki and mirin), grilled potato with wagyu foam, grilled pumpkin with saikyo miso dressing (a sweet paste), and grilled hotate (scallops) served with on a bed of “dirty rice” (a combination of rice vinegar, sesame seeds and other seasoning).
As someone whose diet is predominately plant-based, I also surprised myself by loving the unexpectedly sausage-like roasted chicken heart yakitori, which came with the house tari. Halfway through the meal I tried my first artery – what a sentence. Hatsumorti (the main chicken artery) was served yakitori style, with five or six chicken hearts used to make one crunchy skewer which was bursting with flavour.
And for dessert…
There are three desserts on the main menu (grilled fruit with kuromitsu – or molasses – ice cream, a chocolate fondant with roasted green tea ice cream and a seasonal granita).
But through the omakase menu, I had the pleasure of sampling a variety of sweet treats: miso mochi with a chrysanthemum syrup, which acted as a brilliant palate cleanser, and a kuromitsu (brown sugar syrup) ice cream which came with grilled strawberries.
The drinks
Guests can opt for sake, cocktail or wine pairing, or choose their drinks “à la carte” style. I loved the Gin^2 cocktail (below, left), which featured frozen City of London Gin granita with a gin foam and lemon, while my dining companion enjoyed her Ronin Shochu (right) – a Japanese sake-based cocktail with lime and mint leaves.
With help from the staff, we also chose a carafe of sake to share, opting for the Koshiki Junzukuri (or “northern skies) which was delicious – balanced, slightly sweet and a perfect pairing with our skewers.
The verdict
With its sensational skewers, varied yet traditionally Japanese menu and nose-to-tail dining approach, Junsei is certainly a special place. And, with its intimate setting and friendly staff, it’s the perfect introduction to yakitori-style dining if that’s something you’ve never tried before.
For the full Junsei experience, I definitely recommend the omakase menu because of the culinary adventure it takes you on. Although if you’re not so keen to try arteries, heart and other organs you don’t ordinarily see on a menu, then opting for à la carte might be a safer bet!
Junsei, 132 Seymour Place, London W1H 1NS; junsei.co.uk
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
Kate Samuelson is The Week's former newsletter editor. She was also a regular guest on award-winning podcast The Week Unwrapped. Kate's career as a journalist began on the MailOnline graduate training scheme, which involved stints as a reporter at the South West News Service's office in Cambridge and the Liverpool Echo. She moved from MailOnline to Time magazine's satellite office in London, where she covered current affairs and culture for both the print mag and website. Before joining The Week, Kate worked at ActionAid UK, where she led the planning and delivery of all content gathering trips, from Bangladesh to Brazil. She is passionate about women's rights and using her skills as a journalist to highlight underrepresented communities. Alongside her staff roles, Kate has written for various magazines and newspapers including Stylist, Metro.co.uk, The Guardian and the i news site. She is also the founder and editor of Cheapskate London, an award-winning weekly newsletter that curates the best free events with the aim of making the capital more accessible.
-
The mental health crisis affecting vets
Under The Radar Death of Hampshire vet highlights mental health issues plaguing the industry
By Chas Newkey-Burden, The Week UK Published
-
The Onion is having a very ironic laugh with Infowars
The Explainer The satirical newspaper is purchasing the controversial website out of bankruptcy
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
'Rahmbo, back from Japan, will be looking for a job? Really?'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
The Count of Monte Cristo review: 'indecently spectacular' adaptation
The Week Recommends Dumas's classic 19th-century novel is once again given new life in this 'fast-moving' film
By The Week UK Published
-
Death of England: Closing Time review – 'bold, brash reflection on racism'
The Week Recommends The final part of this trilogy deftly explores rising political tensions across the country
By The Week UK Published
-
Sing Sing review: prison drama bursts with 'charm, energy and optimism'
The Week Recommends Colman Domingo plays a real-life prisoner in a performance likely to be an Oscars shoo-in
By The Week UK Published
-
Kaos review: comic retelling of Greek mythology starring Jeff Goldblum
The Week Recommends The new series captures audiences as it 'never takes itself too seriously'
By The Week UK Published
-
Blink Twice review: a 'stylish and savage' black comedy thriller
The Week Recommends Channing Tatum and Naomi Ackie stun in this film on the hedonistic rich directed by Zoë Kravitz
By The Week UK Published
-
Shifters review: 'beautiful' new romantic comedy offers 'bittersweet tenderness'
The Week Recommends The 'inventive, emotionally astute writing' leaves audiences gripped throughout
By The Week UK Published
-
How to do F1: British Grand Prix 2025
The Week Recommends One of the biggest events of the motorsports calendar is back and better than ever
By Rebekah Evans, The Week UK Published
-
Twisters review: 'warm-blooded' film explores dangerous weather
The Week Recommends The film, focusing on 'tornado wranglers', stars Daisy Edgar-Jones and Glen Powell
By The Week UK Published