Bar Boulud summer terrace review: puts others in the shade
The Mandarin Oriental’s seasonal bistro Bar Boulud tends to be overshadowed – both literally and metaphorically – by the five-star London hotel’s more famous eatery, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal.
But while the bistro sits immediately beneath Blumenthal’s restaurant, it offers an experience each summer that its sibling cannot: access to the hotel’s grand garden terrace, which looks directly out over Hyde Park.
Bar Boulud styles itself as French with a dash of Americana, which translates into a menu packed with house-made pâtés, escargot and beef tartares alongside a selection of big, brash, unapologetically meaty burgers.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
During a recent visit, I began with a ceviche with watermelon that was so fresh and sweet, I was tempted to just pick up the bowl and sip from it. My dining companion opted for the equally aestival grilled octopus on an almond purée, topped with a pile of rocket leaves and orange slices.
Next up, my red wine-marinated duck breast offered hints of Asian fusion, courtesy of the accompanying Hoisin-like red fruit paste and fresh cherries. On the other side of the table, the pan-fried sea trout with spicy succotash sweetcorn velouté tasted a touch too charred for my friend, but was perfectly pitched for my palate.
As the evening drew to a close, we lingered over the buttery, almond flavours of a Gâteau Basque, along with a standout vanilla mille-feuille.
The wisp-thin pastry layers and columns of crème pâtissière disappeared far more swiftly than the final rays of sunshine as the encroaching darkness (or was it the meal we had just enjoyed?) put Dinner by Heston in the shade.
Bar Boulud, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA; barboulud.com/london
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
Arion McNicoll is a freelance writer at The Week Digital and was previously the UK website’s editor. He has also held senior editorial roles at CNN, The Times and The Sunday Times. Along with his writing work, he co-hosts “Today in History with The Retrospectors”, Rethink Audio’s flagship daily podcast, and is a regular panellist (and occasional stand-in host) on “The Week Unwrapped”. He is also a judge for The Publisher Podcast Awards.
-
Her Lotus Year: Paul French's new biography sets lurid rumours straight
The Week Recommends Wallis Simpson's year in China is less scandalous, but 'more interesting' than previously thought
By The Week UK Published
-
Today's political cartoons - November 21, 2024
Cartoons Thursday's cartoons - wild cards, wild turkeys, and more
By The Week US Published
-
Say Nothing: 'sensational' dramatisation of Patrick Radden Keefe's bestselling book
The Week Recommends The series is a 'powerful reminder' of the Troubles
By The Week UK Published
-
How London fell back in love with the brasserie
The Blend From Brasserie Zédel to Café François, we sample the best bistros in town
By Charlie Teasdale Published
-
The Count of Monte Cristo review: 'indecently spectacular' adaptation
The Week Recommends Dumas's classic 19th-century novel is once again given new life in this 'fast-moving' film
By The Week UK Published
-
Death of England: Closing Time review – 'bold, brash reflection on racism'
The Week Recommends The final part of this trilogy deftly explores rising political tensions across the country
By The Week UK Published
-
Sing Sing review: prison drama bursts with 'charm, energy and optimism'
The Week Recommends Colman Domingo plays a real-life prisoner in a performance likely to be an Oscars shoo-in
By The Week UK Published
-
Kaos review: comic retelling of Greek mythology starring Jeff Goldblum
The Week Recommends The new series captures audiences as it 'never takes itself too seriously'
By The Week UK Published
-
Blink Twice review: a 'stylish and savage' black comedy thriller
The Week Recommends Channing Tatum and Naomi Ackie stun in this film on the hedonistic rich directed by Zoë Kravitz
By The Week UK Published
-
Shifters review: 'beautiful' new romantic comedy offers 'bittersweet tenderness'
The Week Recommends The 'inventive, emotionally astute writing' leaves audiences gripped throughout
By The Week UK Published
-
How to do F1: British Grand Prix 2025
The Week Recommends One of the biggest events of the motorsports calendar is back and better than ever
By Rebekah Evans, The Week UK Published