Cavo London review: rooftop dining at the Outernet

London’s newest entertainment district, the Outernet, is situated at the intersection of Tottenham Court Road and Charing Cross Road. The huge development includes retail, dining and residential spaces, as well as a 2,000-person capacity music venue located in the basement of a four-storey structure called The Now Building, clad in an imposing black and gold framework.

This architectural centrepiece has enormous wrap-around LED screens that project immersive video content into the public arena – everything from meditative art projects and movie shorts to music releases and gaming animations.

The complex has had mixed reviews, mainly because of the historic aura surrounding Denmark Street, fondly known as London’s “Tin Pan Alley”, where most of the transformation has taken place. The street has a hallowed past as a music destination once known for its guitar shops, drum stores, recording studios, agents’ offices and music publishers. Close by, the famous Astoria concert venue, which was demolished to make way for the construction of Crossrail, is part of this mythology, as are the music legends who once performed there, including Radiohead, Metallica and Nirvana. David Bowie’s first agent operated out of Denmark Street, and he, along with Jimmy Page, Pete Townshend and Eric Clapton all shopped along this strip for their instruments and favourite audio gadgets.

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Without question, it’s an audaciously modern makeover for such a nostalgic heritage spot, but it is also a place that encourages interaction and revelry – a big plus for this somewhat forgotten patch, previously visited by tourists as a cut through to Soho, and which now also benefits from the Elizabeth line at Tottenham Court Road tube station. With more time, the Outernet, with its state-of-the-art music venue, the largest to be built in central London since the 1940s, will come into its own (Alison Goldfrapp, Jai Paul and FLO have all received rave reviews following performances here) and the same goes for its two main restaurants, Tattu and Cavo.

Why come here

Tattu, which specialises in modern Chinese fare, has so far proved to be the crowd puller, not least because of its decadent temple-like décor, all cavernous and seductively compartmentalised in the manner of Paris’ famed Buddha Bar.

Cavo, situated on the rooftop of the Now, hasn’t yet reached the same level of popularity, but it’s better off for it. It’s more intimate, more chic with a spacious outdoor terrace equipped with big blue umbrellas and wooden decking. Really, it’s about as Mediterranean as the West End can get, with a dog-friendly policy, an excellent bar menu (lots of exotic botanical bases and citrus infusions) and great panoramic views of the capital’s entertainment district. Admittedly this isn’t the Amalfi Coast, but it’s still a lovely place to watch the sun set and it’s surprisingly quiet given the hustle and bustle below – plus the distant BT Tower can pass as a giant lighthouse.

Interior design

It’s not all about the terrace. A sprawling main restaurant with an open kitchen and floor-to-ceiling windows, Cavo has an industrial feel thanks to exposed metal girders, pipework and shiny silver ducting. The modern warehouse feel is offset by elegant wooden tables and seating, softly lit pendulous glass lights and huge concrete pots planted with saplings and small palms.

The food

Cavo has the right attitude when it comes to maintaining a strong culinary message, adopting a fusionist cuisine that’s strictly Mediterranean with plenty of cultural favourites designed to be shared.

Representing the best of Italy is the Piedmont-inspired black truffle tagliolini al tartufo doused in melted 36-month aged parmesan and the pan fried Sicilian red prawns, which are naturally succulent and sweet-tasting. French dishes are a little unrepresented (avoid the spicy mussels in choux pastry, they just don’t work), but the seafood platter to share is really well priced at £70 for two and suitably overflowing and indulgent with plenty of langoustine and razor clams to crack into.

The best Spanish dishes are flamed on a Josper grill – all pleasantly simple and flavour-packed, ranging from tender lobster tail and seared octopus to hearty Galician rib-eye.

There’s an eight-course tasting menu, but the layered leaps from country to country can be a little challenging on the palette with so many textures and flavours. We recommend the à la carte menu or the excellent brunch, which includes three appetisers, the seafood platter, a light poached pear dessert and a pitcher of fresh sangria for £65 per person.

If you just want to see what it’s all about first, Cavo’s terrace is also open between dining hours, though it’s best to book especially on sunny days. Go for tea, cocktails or a strong double espresso if you really want to melt into a relaxed Mediterranean mood.

Alexandra Zagalsky was a guest of Cavo London. The Now Building, Outernet, Denmark Street, London, WC2H 0LA; cavorestaurant.com